Installing Samco Hoses

[RockOn]

I see your running the Russian Roulette K&N filter. Whats the yeller wire on the hex for?

Well, I've had a filter or two loosen on other bikes I've had over the years.....so I put that "safety" wire through the nut to prevent it from spinning off....of course that nut has been known to loosen and even cause an oil leak if used to install and tighten the filter.....so I only use the nut to remove filters and then toss them. I use an old fashioned strap type oil filter wrench for installing.

 

[RockOn]

Might want to put the mesh screen behind flips embellisher. A rock will cost you a new radiator. Paint it black.

You raise a point I have considered........leaving the mesh screen installed for more protection. I would definitely prefer the mesh blacked out if I went that route. Short of powder coating I could hunt for a can of flat black that would work and tough enough to not flake off. Maybe something like high temp engine paint.....?

 

[barbagris]

Are you using the Samco Clamps too? - They are really very good.

One Thing.Read what they say about tightening the Clamps - No really - READ IT.
And do what they say. Or you will be chasing tiny dribbles for days.
Do the first couple of trips with the overflow tank visible.

The Ready Mixed antifreeze that is Florescent Yellow makes dribble chasing much much easier.

 

[barbagris]

Leave large front mesh screen on the radaitor.

Agreed - but wear gloves or the edges will later shred your hands.

Thank god for the @hogweed radiator cover. Once on - That's it. Even if epoxied on you could get to all clamps.

 

[CrzystghndKC]

Agreed - but wear gloves or the edges will later shred your hands.

Thank god for the @hogweed radiator cover. Once on - That's it. Even if epoxied on you could get to all clamps.

I did buy the Samco clamps as well. Since the hoses have a lifetime guarantee I hope to do it one time only.

 

[sonny]

My hoses have been on the bike for awhile now and still look brand new. High quality hoses and clamps. Could be wrong but i think the lifetime warranty is only good if you use their clamps along with the hoses.

 

[Navigator]

Well I'm in the same place. M 3T has a leak somewhere and I cannot find it. I smell the anti-freeze and find some dried coolant on the water pump, front and side of engine and front of oil bag but everything is dry around the pump and both hoses. I cleaned it all off at the Indian dealership about 10 miles from my home and when I returned there was no sign of a leak.

This all started after I had the coolant replaced at the dealership about 500 miles ago. I have a Samco hose and clamp kit so will tackle the job with a friend over the next week of rainy days. I read the procedure in the shop manual and it mentions a 10mm bolt in the head to remove when refilling the radiator. I believe 1olbull told me it was on the left side but the manual doesn't locate it.

On the stuck allen head, I had a couple of those on my 07. We call it "nature bonded" in the maritime world. One of the problems is that the bolts seem to be of soft metal. I found the opposite on my 3T, they were all barely tight, with some loose and with two having fallen out.

On the mesh radiator, I would absolutely retain it. Roll Bar and Frame paint comes in a semi-gloss and should work fine to paint the mesh. It's sold at NAPA dealers.

Edit: And one more. I agree on the PB Blaster. We use it on nature bonded outboard motor nuts and bolts. Good stuff.

 

[warp9.9]

Well I'm in the same place. M 3T has a leak somewhere and I cannot find it. I smell the anti-freeze and find some dried coolant on the water pump, front and side of engine and front of oil bag but everything is dry around the pump and both hoses. I cleaned it all off at the Indian dealership about 10 miles from my home and when I returned there was no sign of a leak.

This all started after I had the coolant replaced at the dealership about 500 miles ago. I have a Samco hose and clamp kit so will tackle the job with a friend over the next week of rainy days. I read the procedure in the shop manual and it mentions a 10mm bolt in the head to remove when refilling the radiator. I believe 1olbull told me it was on the left side but the manual doesn't locate it.

On the stuck allen head, I had a couple of those on my 07. We call it "nature bonded" in the maritime world. One of the problems is that the bolts seem to be of soft metal. I found the opposite on my 3T, they were all barely tight, with some loose and with two having fallen out.

On the mesh radiator, I would absolutely retain it. Roll Bar and Frame paint comes in a semi-gloss and should work fine to paint the mesh. It's sold at NAPA dealers.

Edit: And one more. I agree on the PB Blaster. We use it on nature bonded outboard motor nuts and bolts. Good stuff.

Top bolt hole on the water pump cover which is hard to reseal. I use a dab of permatex on both sides of the copper washer.

 

[Navigator]

Top bolt hole on the water pump cover which is hard to reseal. I use a dab of permatex on both sides of the copper washer.

The manual shows that as the water pump drain plug, oddly enough at the pump, instead of the bottom. The one to which I refer is bleed screw which is opened after water pump drain screw. As I look at the manual, it appears to be above the thermostat housing. One refills the radiator until coolant "escapes" from the bleed screw. I'll find it.

 

[Jag]

There was a change for that top bolt from triumph. The bolt head is bigger