Installing Progressive Fork Springs

When I owned a Speedmaster I put Progressive 440s and front springs in; handled like a completely different / better bike.
After the fact I wished I had done each axle one at a time so I might notice the incremental benefit gained. I have 13" 440s now
on my '06 classic. It definitely felt higher but I got used to it immediately. My wife and I used to bottom out and 13" fixed that.
I also have the heavy duty springs on the 440s.

I agree on the trailing geometry, but I think large changes are the issue. I'm sure dead weight sag is never exactly the same front to
rear; and it can't be predicted by the factory engineers. If you stay within the general range you're not likely to have a problem.
I've never noticed my Rocket's steering to be quicker, but it should be. It's just a very slight effect and not something I can notice.

I'm really interested in getting progressive front springs on the Rocket. I'll probably spring (pun intended) for having a shop do it.
It's a 5 minute job on a Speedmaster and a lot more involved on a Rocket.

Great write up and pictures!

Have to say, I 100% love both my Triumphs! I've been switching off between the Rocket and an '07 Tiger for a couple of years.
Not enough proper words in the language to praise them enough!

TriumPhil said:

Good info, flipper.

I will be installing 12" Progressive 440s in the rear before Springtime rolls around. That is 1/2" lower than stock, however I have not read anything indicating that that particular change in shock height will be detrimental to how the bike will handle. I will look for the thread that I thought I read here about compressing the front shocks a bit and then readjusting their height (by tightening them while under compression) in that manner. It seemed awfully hinkey when I read it, but the guy swore that it dramatically improved his handling characteristics!

Click to expand...

old post but I've only just read it. Not surprised his handling improved, what he's done is take the slack & wallow out of the springs by in effect increasing the preload. And,bumping up the back with longer Hagon shocks, thus reducing the trail a bit, hugely improved the feel of my bike, with no high speed issues whatsoever

I have heard of some guys that have changed out the springs without removing the forks from the bike. Can anyone tell me if it is possible?

Thanks

..without the special tools, it's **** near impossible to do with the forks on or off the bike..your best bet is to take the forks off and have the dealer change out the springs..

Thanks, I was afraid of that.

Big T

Stealership installed front progressive springs today, 2.85 hours labor
Rode 2 hours home, didn't really notice much difference. 10w oil

Have progressive shocks as well, rides a little better, but not the huge difference everyone proclaims.

finkenator9 said:

Stealership installed front progressive springs today, 2.85 hours labor
Rode 2 hours home, didn't really notice much difference. 10w oil

Have progressive shocks as well, rides a little better, but not the huge difference everyone proclaims.

Click to expand...

Difference in Mine ( & my friends found it too) was HUGE!! mind you the OE fork springs had gone so soft as to be fekkin dangerous!! frount end wallowed like a rockinghorse
new ones made cornering SOOOO much better. Still I'd like them even stiffer now,as they gradually soften over time:???:

What a day. Trying to get everything finished before Scott gets here and we leave for RAA8 in MV. Bled the front brakes whilst inventing new swear words at a made in China vacuum brake bleeder. P.O.S. and not cheap! anyway got that done (without the pos) and figured I would have a go at the forks because I have a set of progressive springs on the bench and before MV would be the ticket, not after. Cleared the instruments and handlebars out of the way and jacked the front off the ground. Removed the front wheel and used a ratchet tie down to hold the forks up after loosening the top nuts. I don't have the special tool but figured I would manage somehow. lifted the forks using the ratcheting tie down and tried to improvise but couldn't get at the nut locked onto the top nut. I didn't want to give up so did a search and thanks to Turbo200R4 found a way. I found that the spring and dampener assembly are held in by a bolt at the bottom of the fork tube, visible when the axle is removed. It wouldn't undo with an allen key (Whole assembly was turning) but I had a 10mm hex with a 3/8 drive and used an impact gun. once that bolt was out the fork oil poured out into the bowl I had under it......lucky bit of foresight. The complete assy lifted out and then was placed in the vice (soft jaws) and I was able to check things out. I made a piece to slip under the nut and hold the spring down. Tried to pull the spring down but no way.......SOB.........I'm no spring chicken either and then I got really pissed off..... amazing how strong you get when angry
Took it apart and put the Progressive spring on and tomorrow I'll do the other side, perhaps with pictures. Obviously by removing the bolt at the bottom of the fork it is possible to change the fork oil without removing everything though it takes quite a bit of pumping to get all of the old oil out. I would suggest having a mate to help as it would have been many times easier with an extra pair of hands. Now I'm relaxing with a pint of Abbot ale with a malty richness and a superb hop balance
One of my favourite brews. HTH
P.S. this was on a standard not touring.