RiderRocketman
Supercharged
Seems more than a few are having idle control problems so I'll go through the steps to remove the computer control for the idle altogether and use the old school idle adjustment. NOTE, doing this may void your warranty and you assume all responsibility for doing this modification.
Thanks to Richard at TTS Performance for telling me how to do this.
You will need:
10 mm spanner or socket wrench (to remove airbox cover/bearclaw)
8 mm spanner or socket wrench (to remove coolant overflow fastener)
7 mm spanner wrench or needle nose pliers (for the idle lock nut)
Hex key wrenches (allen wrenches) including a real small one (2.5mm?) for the idle adjustment screw, lifting the tank and instrument cluster.
Short handle Phillips head screwdriver (to remove stepper motor)
Use this photo for reference.
[1] Remove your seat
[2] Remove your bearclaw (two 10mm bolts at top front and bottom rear)
[3] Lift your tank and prop it up with your prop wand (one hex head bolt at front). Pre-2006 Rockets also need the instrument cluster hex bolts removed and the cluster hinged forward to lift the tank.
[4] Locate the idle stepper motor. See pic. Unplug it and remove it (two screws and one clip at the end of the stepper rod). Once the screws are out you can just pop the rod end off.
[5] You can toss the stepper motor and reroute the wire under the tank if you don't mind the engine light on. Otherwise, relocate the stepper motor to under the tank near the front and ziptie it to the frame out of the way of other components.
[6] Remove the support bracket that the stepper motor was attached to. This can be tossed. This must be removed to prevent the throttle from getting stuck.
[7] Take out the top bolt (8mm) holding the coolant overflow bottle to the frame. Take care to catch the square nut on the other side of the bolt.
[8] Just loosen the bottom 8mm bolt holding the overflow bottle on
[9] Hinge the bottle down so you can see the idle control screw and locknut. See pic. Look for that yellow lock paste on the lock nut. Careful not to spill coolant from the bottle when hinging it down.
[10] Loosen the 7mm idle lock nut enough to work the idle screw. Don't take the nut completely off.
[11] Start your bike in neutral and warm it up to running temp (one minute). You may have to manually control the idle with the throttle at this point. Parts will get hot after warm-up so be careful!
[12] Insert the small hex key into the idle adjustment screw/bolt. It may be tight getting the hex key into the idle screw. A long hex key will help.
[13] Bike running at running temp, turn the adjustment screw so it idles at 700 to 800 RPM. Tightening it will increase idle RPM, loosening/decrease. Once set, hold the screw in place with the hex key and tighten the lock nut. Make sure you adjust idle when the engine is warm or it will idle higher once it has warmed up.
[14] Turn off the bike and restart to ensure she is idling properly. Make adjustment if needed.
[15] Put her back together and tighten all bolts. Might as well check and fill the coolant level while you have access.
I've gone 2000 miles with this manual idle and have not had problems. Only thing you may have to do is if you're starting real cold you might have to hold your throttle a little higher manually until she warms up. Should take less than half a minute.
This manual idle won't help you if your throttle position sensor (TPS) is not working. If your bike isn't revving predictably or at all when you wring the throttle then it is more likely a TPS problem and not an idle problem. Good luck!
Thanks to Richard at TTS Performance for telling me how to do this.
You will need:
10 mm spanner or socket wrench (to remove airbox cover/bearclaw)
8 mm spanner or socket wrench (to remove coolant overflow fastener)
7 mm spanner wrench or needle nose pliers (for the idle lock nut)
Hex key wrenches (allen wrenches) including a real small one (2.5mm?) for the idle adjustment screw, lifting the tank and instrument cluster.
Short handle Phillips head screwdriver (to remove stepper motor)
Use this photo for reference.
[1] Remove your seat
[2] Remove your bearclaw (two 10mm bolts at top front and bottom rear)
[3] Lift your tank and prop it up with your prop wand (one hex head bolt at front). Pre-2006 Rockets also need the instrument cluster hex bolts removed and the cluster hinged forward to lift the tank.
[4] Locate the idle stepper motor. See pic. Unplug it and remove it (two screws and one clip at the end of the stepper rod). Once the screws are out you can just pop the rod end off.
[5] You can toss the stepper motor and reroute the wire under the tank if you don't mind the engine light on. Otherwise, relocate the stepper motor to under the tank near the front and ziptie it to the frame out of the way of other components.
[6] Remove the support bracket that the stepper motor was attached to. This can be tossed. This must be removed to prevent the throttle from getting stuck.
[7] Take out the top bolt (8mm) holding the coolant overflow bottle to the frame. Take care to catch the square nut on the other side of the bolt.
[8] Just loosen the bottom 8mm bolt holding the overflow bottle on
[9] Hinge the bottle down so you can see the idle control screw and locknut. See pic. Look for that yellow lock paste on the lock nut. Careful not to spill coolant from the bottle when hinging it down.
[10] Loosen the 7mm idle lock nut enough to work the idle screw. Don't take the nut completely off.
[11] Start your bike in neutral and warm it up to running temp (one minute). You may have to manually control the idle with the throttle at this point. Parts will get hot after warm-up so be careful!
[12] Insert the small hex key into the idle adjustment screw/bolt. It may be tight getting the hex key into the idle screw. A long hex key will help.
[13] Bike running at running temp, turn the adjustment screw so it idles at 700 to 800 RPM. Tightening it will increase idle RPM, loosening/decrease. Once set, hold the screw in place with the hex key and tighten the lock nut. Make sure you adjust idle when the engine is warm or it will idle higher once it has warmed up.
[14] Turn off the bike and restart to ensure she is idling properly. Make adjustment if needed.
[15] Put her back together and tighten all bolts. Might as well check and fill the coolant level while you have access.
I've gone 2000 miles with this manual idle and have not had problems. Only thing you may have to do is if you're starting real cold you might have to hold your throttle a little higher manually until she warms up. Should take less than half a minute.
This manual idle won't help you if your throttle position sensor (TPS) is not working. If your bike isn't revving predictably or at all when you wring the throttle then it is more likely a TPS problem and not an idle problem. Good luck!
