How to Remove Old Gaskets?

[buddazero]

I'm reading the manual now, and I'm already highlighting the sections I need. Seems like I have to tighten the header bolts in a sequence. And I was right, 19Nm.
I have Paul Viking Exhausts, but I guess I can tighten the silencer clamps to 22Nm like the manual says.

 

[Wdugan9080]

I'm reading the manual now, and I'm already highlighting the sections I need. Seems like I have to tighten the header bolts in a sequence. And I was right, 19Nm.
I have Paul Viking Exhausts, but I guess I can tighten the silencer clamps to 22Nm like the manual says.

I didn't torque the pipes, just figured to what I figured they should be able to handle, I did strip the hex head on the small heat guard bolt, didn't even get it all the way snug and stopped there it's holding ordered 3 new one's a month ago and they won't be in till October 12th.

 

[buddazero]

Just whenever you tighten bolts up if there's multiple bolts tighten a little at a time, evenly, or it will leak on anything. In your case the 2 bolts on each header, snug them up evenly and torque them evenly, like divide the full torque by 4 or 5 and work your way up evenly. The rest of the exhaust is just clamps and hangers, put together leave it loose till you get it all together, are you getting rid of the cat??? You can get a decat on eBay unless you're exhaust doesn't need one, a complete system shouldn't need it, but you will have to retune the fuel ratios after, you can get tuneecu and get it close, download a premade.hex file and install it, unless you have a Dyno and know how to set it up, I don't that's way beyond my expertise, I didn't even read or research that part, I just had tor's on it when I bought it and the guy had it tuned for that, but I added a k&n box filter and the decat and installed Nell's tune from tuneecu, once I'm happy with the way it's running I'll change the plugs and have it set on a Dyno, enjoying it!!!
You will find a manual, and a lot of good info in idk signature, he knows his stuff, and warp9 is a God on here. Big ty to both of them

Thank you for this! My Bike has already been Dyno tuned with the Paul Viking Headers with his Dual Exhaust System and cross over pipe. So no, I don't have the Cat anymore. I'm only taking the headers off to get them ceramic coated on the outside & inside by Jet Hot. Apparently since my bike has been Dyno tuned, I don't need to get another one, even if I'm getting the headers ceramic coated. Even though it retains the heat and in theory should increase HP, the difference is so minimal that it doesn't require another Dyno Tune.

As for the headers, I figured it out just as you suggested, I would Snug them up first, then finish the job with the Torque Wrench. To be honest this was my first time dismantling the Exhaust System (I had the dealership install Paul's Viking Exhaust system, turn out in the end I had to uninstall them), and in a months time I'll be putting it back together. But, from the manual, the headers are the first to go on, I'll put the bolts on loosely to keep the headers up so they don't fall off the engine, then I'll put on the Cross over pipe, right side exhaust, then left, afterwards I'll snug the bolt headers, snug the cross over pipe and exhausts, and then finally torque the bolt headers evenly, and tighten everything else.

 

[atomsplitter]

The key is the torquing sequence. The tightening pattern ensures the gaskets recieve even pressure as the torque is applied. This ensures no leakage around the donut cold. The header pipe flange expands when heated creating a tight seal. In the grand scheme of things 19 (or 22) NM isn't a lot of torque so slow and careful is the order of the day.

 

[buddazero]

The key is the torquing sequence. The tightening pattern ensures the gaskets recieve even pressure as the torque is applied. This ensures no leakage around the donut cold. The header pipe flange expands when heated creating a tight seal. In the grand scheme of things 19 (or 22) NM isn't a lot of torque so slow and careful is the order of the day.

In the manual it says to follow the sequence and torque it using 19nm, 1 - 6, and then to do it again but only to 1 - 3.

So for 3 bolts I’m tightening it again, now I have a torque wrench, looked up how to use it and I know that when you hear the click you stop. But if I tighten it twice using the torque wrench (as the manual says), won’t I break something?

 

[TURBO200R4]

just my opinion
the first time around i would go with about half that torque
then do the final torque try not to bend the flanges.
retorque after a couple of rides.

 

[atomsplitter]

In the manual it says to follow the sequence and torque it using 19nm, 1 - 6, and then to do it again but only to 1 - 3.

So for 3 bolts I’m tightening it again, now I have a torque wrench, looked up how to use it and I know that when you hear the click you stop. But if I tighten it twice using the torque wrench (as the manual says), won’t I break something?

Your torque wrench won't overtorque the nut if set correctly. If you set it to 19 NM then no matter how many times you hit the same bolt the thing will click at 19 NM it will not double the torque. Once all flange bolt/nuts are finger tight, then use the wrench only a quarter turn at atime on each in the pattern required. Typically you start from the outside and work in toward the center. When you tighten the center nuts the outsides maybe less than 19NM as the gaskets compress. You keep at it until ALL the nuts are clicking at 19NM. You may have to go over all those bolts/nuts 5 or 6 times before they all are set.

 

[Wdugan9080]

Your torque wrench won't overtorque the nut if set correctly. If you set it to 19 NM then no matter how many times you hit the same bolt the thing will click at 19 NM it will not double the torque. Once all flange bolt/nuts are finger tight, then use the wrench only a quarter turn at atime on each in the pattern required. Typically you start from the outside and work in toward the center. When you tighten the center nuts the outsides maybe less than 19NM as the gaskets compress. You keep at it until ALL the nuts are clicking at 19NM. You may have to go over all those bolts/nuts 5 or 6 times before they all are set.

I would torque them in sequence first 5nm then 10nm then 15nm then 19nm, twice on 19, but I'm not a professional mechanic. Gl you just want to make sure the #1 cylinder is even then the next then the next, do not tighten one side of the flange to 19nm, I do know that, and hey if they leak you can blame me, but as long as you don't tighten over 19nm total you can't really mess anything up that can't be fixed, if you overtighten and strip the threads (aluminum head's) you will have big problems, it's not Rocket Science, excuse the pun
Just make sure you listen for the click go slow, be careful you didn't hear it and overtighten, that would be bad, if you're not sure take the pressure off the wrench and turn again, you should be able to feel it too, don't rush it, it's only 6 bolts that you really have to be careful with, all the other one's can be replaced fairly easily

 

[buddazero]

All of this is really great information and have totally answered my questions. I feel confident now that I know what I'm doing and have a base plan. One thing that I can be ready for is to make sure I "hear" the click. And lets say I'm not sure if I heard it, I just let go, and turn slowly again until I hear the click. And the click means that it's at 19Nm, so no matter how many times I hear the click, it won't go over 19Nm, BUT if I keep turning, then yes that equals big problems! I hear the click- I STOP!

I will follow the sequence order, but all in all, I will go SLOW when using the Torque wrench. Nice and slow.

Thank you all!

 

[TURBO200R4]

u can always put a bolt in a vice and practice.
that will give u a fell for different settings
hth