Hot Rear Brakes

[Ishrub]

Not one calliper slide pin there. Stainless pad retention pins is not a bad idea though.

Yeah alright. Happy now?

But while your here what is the difference with E-spec #12 Bolt, Caliper, P/Locked, E-Spec T2020288 from #13 Bolt, Caliper, P/Locked, 30mm T2020287 in the front claiper details from Fowlers UK below?

Squaredeals-ltd.co.uk
Rocket 3 Rear Brake Caliper Brake Pad Pin Stainless Steel SKU T2020693

Price: £9.99 each
One Stainless Steel pin plus 2 Stainless "R clips" supplied

Touring

#6 PIN SET T2020693
Rear Brake Caliper & Disc - Triumph ROCKET III TOURING | Triumph ROCKET III TOURING Rear Brake Caliper & Disc supplied next day (UK only) by Fowlers Parts

Roadster

#6 PIN SET T2020693
Rear BrakeCaliper & Disc - Triumph ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER | Triumph ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER Rear BrakeCaliper & Disc supplied next day (UK only) by Fowlers Parts

Not to be confused with
#5 Retainer T2020247 or
#13 Bolt, Caliper, P/Locked, 30mm T2020287
#14 Bolt, Caliper, P/Locked, E-Spec T2020288

Front Brake Caliper & Discs - Triumph ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER | Triumph ROCKET III, CLASSIC & ROADSTER Front Brake Caliper & Discs supplied next day (UK only) by Fowlers Parts

 

[John Miller]

The thing is that this grease is going to get hot.

So what's your option - some greases have pretty high melting points - what do they use in wheel bearings.

 

[John Miller]

Rubber grease has been used for hydraulic brake component assembly for about the last 6 decades by most mechanics - if you don't have any you use brake fluid. its no surprise Brembo and many other brake parts suppliers include a satchel of it with most of their cylinder and caliper seal kits - I wonder why that is.

 

[1K9]

Rubber grease has been used for hydraulic brake component assembly for about the last 6 decades by most mechanics - if you don't have any you use brake fluid. its no surprise Brembo and many other brake parts suppliers include a satchel of it with most of their cylinder and caliper seal kits - I wonder why that is.

I can see that a dab of grease will make seating the pistons all the way in easier and prevent microbubbles getting trapped behind the seals when thei'r seated. Air ends up as a mushy feel on the pedal. My worry is lubing the pins. There is little motion that goes on there but the play is necessary for the caliper to let go when you release the pedal. I'm still waiting for the new seals. Perhaps today. Once it is done we can recap for the benefit of others that might encounter this problem.

Thank you for all who have chimed. It gives me confidence that I'm not going to be cranking the toy music box and have a clown pop up.

 

[barbagris]

It gives me confidence that I'm not going to be cranking the toy music box and have a clown pop up.

 

[1K9]

Yeah Yeah they are not the 6.5mm Triumph. I have a set of those and a set from a 955I. These look a lot sturdier and are going to have to work. For under 200$ delivered, they can warp. Did I say that they look kooool or what? God Bless The Queen.


BTW Marcos, my local Guru at Iron Mike's say. If the discs were getting tooo hot they would have turned PURPLE . You have some play in the caliper you'r OK. The pads drag some when the pedal is released so the rear disc will run hot. Aaand yes, the pin boots get a lube job.


Happy Dog


Sorry, I have to brag. My son's Rick's house in Jacksonville. 40 y/o Not Even High School, just lots of work.

 

[cootertwo]

Nice home, and a happy critter too!

 

[1K9]

Nice home, and a happy critter too!

Going there after MV. Let's visit somehow, somewhere.

 

[1K9]

Well, the rear end is OK now, however the front is a mess. Left front disc hot, right disc cold = baaad.

Front pads, front seals and two of the pistons.


Hardware, new ware. The calipers are going into an ultrasound bath tomorrow.

This is what I learned. The bike will stop and the pads look like they have meat, OK? Nooo. Not so fast. On the left caliper only one piston was working. On the right two were working, meaning they would compress. If your seals are more that 5 years or 30K miles old, they need changing. Regardless of how the pads look. When you change the pads, remove the calipers and check and see if you can compress them all the way in by hand. Making a habit to spray and rinse the calipers well every 500 to 1000 miles is not a bad idea. If your discs have play when you rotate them back and forth and wobble when you depress them towards and away from the forks, you need discs. It took me 1 hour to remove and disassemble the front calipers. Not bad for a half blind novice. YOU CAN DO IT! The shop will not. They will look at the pads and say, you need new pads.

BTW, all this started when I installed the new CT.

 

[Paul Bryant]

This is all getting far too complex. I dislike single sided callipers like the R3 rear, anyway. Time to swap it out for a proper double sided one (correctly shimmed). Pretech might be a bit OTT Pretech Motorcycle Brake Cliper Triumph Rocket lll Rear 6 Pot CaliperRequires Bracket

I did something similar when I still had my Buell S3T - made a MASSIVE difference.

I'll bet there is a Brembo kit somewhere - If not all it takes is a bit of design and machining to make the rear support. Hmmmmm!

I've built this set up using a front L/H caliper.

Using the stock Master Cylinder, the hydraulic ratio is now about 21-1, up from 10-1 with the stock Caliper.
This is going to dramatically increase the rear brake power.
I have a EBC Cast Iron rear rotor to go on at the same time.