No, there is no connection between the oil pressure lamp and the ECU or ignition system.
The oil light will always come on if the engine is not running; as long as it went out once started then it was merely on because the engine died.

Is this an OEM (Datatool) alarm or after-market?
Either way I would say one of two things are the issue:
1) the alarm itself is a problem (and certainly appears to be given your issues with disarming it)
2) the key-switch is a common failure item and this could have been the problem here

I'm speculating on each of the above possible causes, without more data. However for sure, it did not die because of oil pressure (unless of course it hard-seized but then it would have locked the wheel until you pulled in clutch)
No, there is no connection between the oil pressure lamp and the ECU or ignition system.
The oil light will always come on if the engine is not running; as long as it went out once started then it was merely on because the engine died.

Is this an OEM (Datatool) alarm or after-market?
Either way I would say one of two things are the issue:
1) the alarm itself is a problem (and certainly appears to be given your issues with disarming it)
2) the key-switch is a common failure item and this could have been the problem here

I'm speculating on each of the above possible causes, without more data. However for sure, it did not die because of oil pressure (unless of course it hard-seized but then it would have locked the wheel until you pulled in clutch)
Thank you DEcosse, That's really put my mind at rest. Not sure which alarm but will check it when I get home from work and let you know. Thank you again
 
No, there is no connection between the oil pressure lamp and the ECU or ignition system.
The oil light will always come on if the engine is not running; as long as it went out once started then it was merely on because the engine died.

Is this an OEM (Datatool) alarm or after-market?
Either way I would say one of two things are the issue:
1) the alarm itself is a problem (and certainly appears to be given your issues with disarming it)
2) the key-switch is a common failure item and this could have been the problem here

I'm speculating on each of the above possible causes, without more data. However for sure, it did not die because of oil pressure (unless of course it hard-seized but then it would have locked the wheel until you pulled in clutch)
Hi DEcosse
The alarm mine has is called an ACUMEN it turns out they went bust! cant think why pms! I don't know it its an aftermarket alarm but probably. I guess best option is to have it removed?
 
The Factory Option Alarm is by Datatool
Acumen would be after-market - some of the Acumens are DIY install and some are only by professional installation.
Do you have a model number?

You need to see how it was installed @Mongoose911 - Triumph actually provides a Factory Alarm interface connector into which the Datatool Accessory alarm plugs in directly
With after-market alarms, it depends on who installed it - they may have used this connector, or possibly made hard-wired connections into the main harness.
And if it has an immobilizer connection, it again will very much depend on how that was hooked up - with the OEM/Datatool alarm you simply unplug it and replace it with a bypass connector plug.
But if it was hard-wired then you need to 'remake' whichever connection was cut to re-complete the circuit.

The OEM alarm connector is located under the tank about half way down on the right side (the reference to the 'two loops' is for the bypass connector when an alarm is NOT fitted)

OEM_Connector_Locations_old.jpg


If its all connected to that point, then all you need is the bypass connector

If its hard-wired, then you need to do a bit more investigation on how it was actually connected.
 
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The Factory Option Alarm is by Datatool
Acumen would be after-market - some of the Acumens are DIY install and some are only by professional installation.
Do you have a model number?

You need to see how it was installed @Mongoose911 - Triumph actually provides a Factory Alarm interface connector into which the Datatool Accessory alarm plugs in directly
With after-market alarms, it depends on who installed it - they may have used this connector, or possibly made hard-wired connections into the main harness.
And if it has an immobilizer connection, it again will very much depend on how that was hooked up - with the OEM/Datatool alarm you simply unplug it and replace it with a bypass connector plug.
But if it was hard-wired then you need to 'remake' whichever connection was cut to re-complete the circuit.

The OEM alarm connector is located under the tank about half way down on the right side (the reference to the 'two loops' is for the bypass connector when an alarm is NOT fitted)

OEM_Connector_Locations_old.jpg


If its all connected to that point, then all you need is the bypass connector

If its hard-wired, then you need to do a bit more investigation on how it was actually connected.
Appollogies for slow response had a bit family drama! Thank for this info DEcosse I will find out the model no and let you know. I'm away from home so might be a few days again thank you DEcosse
 
No problem, i'm not a big fan of remote alarms or starts on bikes if they are not factory equipment, most of the ones i have seen malfunction but that is just my personal opinion, hope the experts help you figure it out:)

Me thinks reasonable opinion you have.
Oops, sorry too much Indian stuff lately.:roll:
Ken IS THE MAN to help sort this out!
There are two kinds of aftermarket alarm systems, IMHO.
Those that are FUBAR and those that soon shall be! :thumbsdown:
 
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