Heat shield screw snapped

[Einar]

Yesterday I was attempting to remove the heat shield at the front of the swingarm/shaftdrive cover, which is just two M6x12 button-head screws. It should have been easy! The forward one came out without complaint, but the one in the rear must have been cross-threaded at the factory because the head sheared off almost immediately. I made it worse by trying to use an extractor, which snapped off inside it. It's under warranty, but I'm not sure the shop will be able to get it out either, and I'd rather not have them tear everything apart to replace the swingarm for what's a non-essential part. Without welding, do I have any other options? Attempt to drill it out with a left-hand bit? Even if I get it out, the hole is likely useless without embiggening it for a larger replacement screw. Maybe I'm just venting.

 

[sunny]

Yesterday I was attempting to remove the heat shield at the front of the swingarm/shaftdrive cover, which is just two M6x12 button-head screws. It should have been easy! The forward one came out without complaint, but the one in the rear must have been cross-threaded at the factory because the head sheared off almost immediately. I made it worse by trying to use an extractor, which snapped off inside it. It's under warranty, but I'm not sure the shop will be able to get it out either, and I'd rather not have them tear everything apart to replace the swingarm for what's a non-essential part. Without welding, do I have any other options? Attempt to drill it out with a left-hand bit? Even if I get it out, the hole is likely useless without embiggening it for a larger replacement screw. Maybe I'm just venting.

I would put lots of anti seize, let it work out overnight, go to a shop and ask them to take it out, that way you would retain your OEM threads ( most likely)

 

[TURBO200R4]

Yesterday I was attempting to remove the heat shield at the front of the swingarm/shaftdrive cover, which is just two M6x12 button-head screws. It should have been easy! The forward one came out without complaint, but the one in the rear must have been cross-threaded at the factory because the head sheared off almost immediately. I made it worse by trying to use an extractor, which snapped off inside it. It's under warranty, but I'm not sure the shop will be able to get it out either, and I'd rather not have them tear everything apart to replace the swingarm for what's a non-essential part. Without welding, do I have any other options? Attempt to drill it out with a left-hand bit? Even if I get it out, the hole is likely useless without embiggening it for a larger replacement screw. Maybe I'm just venting.

sometimes you can use a chisel to break the easy outs
heli coils you have to drill a little bigger than the bolt size
helicoils coils work good depends on depth and if they are to long you put them and not all the way and knock off the tab then with you cut the remainning coil close to the base.
and if you do not understand this do not try it.

 

[Sawboman]

If the Easy Out has snapped inside the broken screw I'm afraid you have a problem
The making and selling of Easy Outs should be banned by law!
They snap very easily and they can't be drilled because they're too hard
I know this from personal experience many years ago

 

[Einar]

If the Easy Out has snapped inside the broken screw I'm afraid you have a problem
The making and selling of Easy Outs should be banned by law!
They snap very easily and they can't be drilled because they're too hard
I know this from personal experience many years ago

I finally got the bulk of the original M6x12 screw, and the "not-so Easy Out" out by use of a diamond head on a Dremel, which did a fine job of grinding both to powder. But the threads of the original screw are still embedded in the walls, still cross-threaded, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to deal with that. Probably going to wind up using cutting fluid and a tap (very carefully).

 

[Mongler07]

a note for the future. use a little antiseize on SS threads, very prone to gauling. I HATE that silver trash goop but it has its use and this is it!

 

[Tal]

.....those little buggers can be very stubborn to remove...i think you did very well to actually removing the broken piece!...it may require rethreading and a slightly larger screw being inserted i'm thinking!...let us know how it all ended.

 

[Sawboman]

If the M6 thread is ruined I recommend this type of thread reducer
I've used them in alloy many times over the years with great success
Tap out the hole to M8 and screw it in with thread locking compound and you have a strong steel M6 thread

 

[zenbiker]

I would put lots of anti seize, let it work out overnight, go to a shop and ask them to take it out, that way you would retain your OEM threads ( most likely)

Kroil penetrating oil is the best I've ever used. Let the application sit overnight.

 

[zenbiker]

Kroil penetrating oil is the best I've ever used. Let the application sit overnight.