Handlebar risers or bars?

travelguy said:

was thinking about using expandable foam or injecting bars with silicone to prevent chaffing when running internal wires.

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You'd have to make sure whatever you use is compatible with the insulation on the wires. Expandable foam like Great Stuff has a formaldehyde base so it's a solvent and may attack the insulation. I'd try some on a wire first. If you did foam the wires in place in the tubes, you'd never be able to extract them. I think what I'd do is get some Heyco push in strain relief's to immobilize the wires at the lower ends of the bars. At least then you could access the harness if you needed to. The strain reliefs will keep the wires from moving when the bars are oscillated back and forth. The wires coud move inside the bars themselves but just a little. There would be no to and fro movement with the Heyco's installed. Heyco is in Toms River, New Jersey. They are the largest supplier of injection moulded electrical panel acessories in the world. I don't have their web addy on this computer but you can Google 'em.

Why don't you just let the moths out of your wallet and buy some of my aluminum wiring harness clamps?

I do have a classic with the wider bars and the risers did the trick. I had bought the handlebars for the tourer which arent as wide, they pull in some in the center and come back. I ended up not using the bars, just the cables and brake lines. I like the classic bars with the risers. But I do have the touring seat with the backrest too.

PHATDAD said:

I run a plastic sleeves over the wires where they pass through the holes at both ends. I sprayed silicone into the bars to reduce friction too.
I also put Armor All on my tire treads to get extra miles out of them...

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Armor all sucks.

dougl said:

You shouldn't need both risers and new bars. I had Ultra-Classic pullback bars from Flanders Handlebars installed - they required longer cables, which should be the case if your riser/classic bar combination is as high and pulled back.

http://www.sideroadcycles.com/importedmotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/ImportMore/ImportUltra2-2.html

I also have a bad back. With the bars and Corbin Dual Touring seat with back rest, I'm in Lazy-Boy mode.

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Doug,

Who did you get your extended cables and hoses from? I have a 2005 RIII and currently have the Rivco Risers. I am going to change to CLASSIC handlebars (got em' in the garage) and need some help on sourcing the longer cables and hoses.

Thanks!

HeR3tic said:

You didn't mention whether you had a Classic or Standard. The former has longer (wider) and slightly pulled back bars. If you have the Standard, then the risers might be just right. I believe the cables and brake lines are the same on both. With the risers and Standard bars there may be no "rerouting" necessary. Anyone; Speak up if that's no so!

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You absolutely must re-route cables and hoses when using the Rivco risers.

boogerdave said:

I do have a classic with the wider bars and the risers did the trick. I had bought the handlebars for the tourer which arent as wide, they pull in some in the center and come back. I ended up not using the bars, just the cables and brake lines. I like the classic bars with the risers. But I do have the touring seat with the backrest too.

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The Classic and the Tourer have the same bars.

RoadVenture said:

You absolutely must re-route cables and hoses when using the Rivco risers.

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I take it that you have the Standard bars; therefore the simple question, as to whether Standard bars with riser requires rerouting as do the Classic bars with risers, has been answered. Thanks for your clarification

PHATDAD said:

...I also put Armor All on my tire treads to get extra miles out of them...

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It surely looks good, but...be extra-mindful for the first few miles after application on the contact patch area.

Yep, my mistake . . . silly me. I'm easily confused . . . I have a Standard