owl
Turbocharged
This is the explanation and picture as supplied by perfectspeed.......
When i first received the R3, brand-new, I looked at the linkage and my first thought was, what rubbish. Looked a little closer, saw all the goodies such as the foam-rubber washers and the wire which prevents the 'claw' from parting with the 'ball' and thought, what sh...!
A few days later the claw parted company with the ball (almost like my life's story) and that was the point at which I modified the linkage.
Now, 30'000km later the mod still works perfectly. Peace of mind.
The rod-ends are made by the jap. company IKO. The bore in the ball is 6mm and the female thread M6. Alternatively you may want to use the British made "Unibal" part nr. MFL6.
I was looking for rod-end-bearings (called rose-joints in the UK??) with left- and right-hand female threads. To no avail, this is Africa. This would have made the adjusting easier. Therefore, if I ever need to adjust the pedal I have to remove the bearing from the pedal and adjust the 8mm rod (with the 6mm thread on both ends) equally in both bearings. A little time intensive but no problem, I'm retired. apart from riding bikes far and wide and talking to my dog (nobody else listens) I have not much else to do.
I added a shrink-sleeve to the 8mm part of the rod (made of high-tensile steel) which enables me to turn it between 2 fingers rather then having to use a pair of pliers or worse, a vice grip (hate these things!). To fasten the rod-end to the pedal I used an m6 bolt and dome-head nut. Thus preventing the boot to get scratched. The whole assembly looks neat and works perfectly. Try to attach the lever on the selector-shaft as horizontally as possible thus revolving the lever equally when changing gears up or down. The further the lever is away from the horizontal position the harder it will be to change gears. However, the splices(?) on the shaft did not correspond excactly to those in the lever which prevented a 100% horizontal position of the lever in the 'neutral' positition.
Finally, lock the screws and nuts (not the thread on the rod and the lock nuts) with loctite to ensure that they won't part company when doing 200kph in the desert. on the other hand, there is to the best of my knowledge no desert in the UK!
When i first received the R3, brand-new, I looked at the linkage and my first thought was, what rubbish. Looked a little closer, saw all the goodies such as the foam-rubber washers and the wire which prevents the 'claw' from parting with the 'ball' and thought, what sh...!
A few days later the claw parted company with the ball (almost like my life's story) and that was the point at which I modified the linkage.
Now, 30'000km later the mod still works perfectly. Peace of mind.
The rod-ends are made by the jap. company IKO. The bore in the ball is 6mm and the female thread M6. Alternatively you may want to use the British made "Unibal" part nr. MFL6.
I was looking for rod-end-bearings (called rose-joints in the UK??) with left- and right-hand female threads. To no avail, this is Africa. This would have made the adjusting easier. Therefore, if I ever need to adjust the pedal I have to remove the bearing from the pedal and adjust the 8mm rod (with the 6mm thread on both ends) equally in both bearings. A little time intensive but no problem, I'm retired. apart from riding bikes far and wide and talking to my dog (nobody else listens) I have not much else to do.
I added a shrink-sleeve to the 8mm part of the rod (made of high-tensile steel) which enables me to turn it between 2 fingers rather then having to use a pair of pliers or worse, a vice grip (hate these things!). To fasten the rod-end to the pedal I used an m6 bolt and dome-head nut. Thus preventing the boot to get scratched. The whole assembly looks neat and works perfectly. Try to attach the lever on the selector-shaft as horizontally as possible thus revolving the lever equally when changing gears up or down. The further the lever is away from the horizontal position the harder it will be to change gears. However, the splices(?) on the shaft did not correspond excactly to those in the lever which prevented a 100% horizontal position of the lever in the 'neutral' positition.
Finally, lock the screws and nuts (not the thread on the rod and the lock nuts) with loctite to ensure that they won't part company when doing 200kph in the desert. on the other hand, there is to the best of my knowledge no desert in the UK!