First time Rocket owner looking for simple advice on oil changes

EasTexRIII said:
Cool pic of mountain bike n ya self - I spin up a Trek fuel 29'er. "Shut up legs!"
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Thanks! That's from the Shenandoah Mountain 100 a few years ago. It was a complete muddy mess. I'm on a Trek Top Fuel now - great bike!
 
Just got back from the Triumph dealer to pick-up some crush washers and the o-ring for the oil change. From the "are you kidding me department", the dealer doesn't carry the o-ring because they never change them on the bikes they service. I've read that people re-use the o-rings and washers for a few oil changes, but seriously, the dealer never changes them?
 
Comotion said:
Thanks! That's from the Shenandoah Mountain 100 a few years ago. It was a complete muddy mess. I'm on a Trek Top Fuel now - great bike!
Click to expand...


Yea, they are great bikes - I had 3 Gary Fisher 29'er frames that I snapped the drive side swing arm on all of em before they finally warranty'd me into the Trek Fuel.......... much, much better bike. As I am now almost 55 years old, I find the full suspension, along with the rolling forgiveness of the 29" wheels/tires much more easy on me achin back!!!!!!
 


yea, our dealer doesn't even stock the gd washers either...................
Juss re-use that o-ring
 
OK, hopefully the last, last question! I've seen conflicting opinions on the internet about which way to install the crush washers. So does the curved side go towards the motor or the drain plug, or does it not matter?
 
Comotion said:
OK, hopefully the last, last question! I've seen conflicting opinions on the internet about which way to install the crush washers. So does the curved side go towards the motor or the drain plug, or does it not matter?
Click to expand...


I would say since it is called a "crush" washer, it would have to be curved side down, since that is the only way it could "crush"
JMO
 
TO rocket said:
It's not that important on a crush washer. In critical situations it is usual to place the radius towards the fastener to protect the radius inside the head of the bolt.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the clarification. That makes sense
 
Ok, I did the oil change today and 2 things surprised me: 1) I'm not used to oil caps that don't screw on. I unscrewed it (I thought) to take it off, and when I tried screwing it back on with no luck, I looked at the "threads", and realized they aren't really threads. 2) Whoever changed the oil before me didn't used a washer on the rear sump drain plug, and there were a couple of tiny pieces of threads I pulled out, probably where they were tightening it to try to keep it from leaking. I'll be keeping my eye on that.
 
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