Thanks for the info I have a appointment to get the bike safetyed Monday and now the tail light is flickering when the brake is applied and this tank prop just fell out I had know idea what it was
so little under the gun.
Isn't Guinness medicine for ADDI think most of the guys, especially the ones who are a bit mechanically oriented, were just having a bit of fun because a prop rod which holds something up is usually self explanatory the first time you raise the fuel tank to look underneath. By the look of that valve cover gasket (starting to squish out of place) you may be using it sooner than you think. One other point, if you think the fellows are a bit drunk or maybe making fun of you (they usually only do that to me).... they might be.... or they might not be.... to know is the question??? That's why we call it the asylum... LOOK, SQUIRREL..
Don't take it personally, most of us are attention deficit and are waiting for our meds....
You now know where it goes to hold it when not in use so it doesn't flop around right, the plastic clips on the side of the top frame under the right side, under the tank when it's down, and it only fits in one direction. Plastic tip in back, metal tip in front.Thanks for the info I have a appointment to get the bike safetyed Monday and now the tail light is flickering when the brake is applied and this tank prop just fell out I had know idea what it was
Thanks for the detailed info. The lights on this bike have all been replaced with LED's and the previous owner just pigtailed the connections and electrical taped the ends. I cleaned all that up now when the key is turned on the tail light works but when the bike is running its off is crazy how this bike passed the safety in Quebec.You now know where it goes to hold it when not in use so it doesn't flop around right, the plastic clips on the side of the top frame under the right side, under the tank when it's down, and it only fits in one direction. Plastic tip in back, metal tip in front.
And when in use it, it goes from the bolt hole in the front of the tank the plastic tip. To the bolt hole in the frame that the bolt came out of, the metal tip. I hope this explains it.
The flickering light is either a bulb on the way out or a dirty connection, could be in the socket or any connection back to the fuse block, usually if you shake the connections around and it flicker's you find it, and after you clean it put some dielectric grease in, on, whatever you cleaned, except signal wires like the ECU, or fuel injectors.
And I spray it dry with the evaporating electrical contact cleaner. There's 2 different types of spray electric contact cleaner, the other one has a lubricant in it, that's what you're going to use the grease for, you can probably use the one with the lubricant on the ECU and injectors, signal wires, and I don't mean turn signal wires, low voltage, ma, signal wire's. There's a difference
I solder wires together and use shrinking waterproof tape , (tubing). If you can't solder them, I use crimp on connectors heat shrink tubing. The LED's maybe getting the wrong voltage, they're not all the same, some led lights you need a rectifier or controller in the circuit, does yours have one?? My headlight was replaced with an LED light and the guy for some reason couldn't use the original wires, so it's not on when the keys on, it has a separate switch on the side plastic infill on the frame that has to be turned on, not sure about the tail light, I don't know how it's wired, I haven't traced it totally back, but added wires run out of the headlight, and there's an extra fuse block added in to the battery, so I believe somehow it's directly off the battery but the low and high beams still work?? Read, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!!! So I leave it alone. I imagine just your running lights aren't working and the stop/brake light does by what I read. I don't have a clue what it could be just maybe when it's running gets too much voltage and it shuts off over 12 volts? Sounds Greek to me, and I'm not Greek. But that's the drawbacks of working with anything custom, usually it's not documented, it's on the FLY. I have never worked with LED lights before, it's really before my time, you can Google or Siri your Brand and model lights and maybe get a diagram. but I'm sure if you can stir up the electrical God on here decosse he would have the answer. Gl
Thanks for the reply i appreciate your time. I believe you nailed it I think it's getting too much voltage but not sure how to fix that still working on it had to reschedule my safety.I solder wires together and use shrinking waterproof tape , (tubing). If you can't solder them, I use crimp on connectors heat shrink tubing. The LED's maybe getting the wrong voltage, they're not all the same, some led lights you need a rectifier or controller in the circuit, does yours have one?? My headlight was replaced with an LED light and the guy for some reason couldn't use the original wires, so it's not on when the keys on, it has a separate switch on the side plastic infill on the frame that has to be turned on, not sure about the tail light, I don't know how it's wired, I haven't traced it totally back, but added wires run out of the headlight, and there's an extra fuse block added in to the battery, so I believe somehow it's directly off the battery but the low and high beams still work?? Read, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!!! So I leave it alone. I imagine just your running lights aren't working and the stop/brake light does by what I read. I don't have a clue what it could be just maybe when it's running gets too much voltage and it shuts off over 12 volts? Sounds Greek to me, and I'm not Greek. But that's the drawbacks of working with anything custom, usually it's not documented, it's on the FLY. I have never worked with LED lights before, it's really before my time, you can Google or Siri your Brand and model lights and maybe get a diagram. but I'm sure if you can stir up the electrical God on here decosse he would have the answer. Gl
PS if you use the crimping method put a little dielectric grease in there before you shrink the tubing.
And did I say before my time???? I meant after my time, I had one year of basic electronics about 40+ years ago
I think the guy who sold me mine he had to install something else for the light to work, don't know if it's a rectifier, I think that's wrong, probably some kind of regulator or controller of some kind, like I said see if you can find a wiring diagram for the model lights, should be able to download it at the manufacturer web site. But looks like you're on the right path read this, I see they do have resistors for them. I think they have to be retrofitted, I don't see any made for the Rocket.
ledlightsunlimited.net
