Engine is making oil.

Claviger said:

As for overfilling, complete non-issue, doesn't matter unless it's leaking out the oil tank lol.

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Tripps said:

My r/65, if I forgot to shut off the peacock, it would drain the entire gas tank into the oil, happened a few times

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Kevin frazier said:

northernrider if i was home in Nashville i would have offered up help

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northernrider said:

Thank you Kevin. And thanks to everyone else for your comments and suggestions.
I've noticed now, that after a long run on the interstate she idles rough and will stall easily (of coarse the stalling part might be because I'm running rough after the interstate). In the morning she idles great. Not too concerned, just that my 05 didn't react the same on last years trip.
Got into Nashville late last night. It was 600+ mile run. I've got the long haul seat on, was bought new old-stock last year. Put it on just before the trip. I've got 1200 miles on the seat now, so it should be broken in, but ow. It seems to slope down a bit and leaves hot spots on the cheeks that are somehow both painful and numb. Will definitely be investing in a Laam seat over the winter. I think I'm going to try an Airhawk To continue this trip. I'll be heading towards New Orleans on Tuesday. Any places of interest I should check out along the way? On Saturday I'll have to leave from New Orleans to make it home in time to get to work.

Kevin, is there a good spot in or near Nashville to buy an Airhawk? Is there a good place to take a picture of my bike that is easy to access but still screams NASHVILLE?

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Claviger said:

The stalling thing is a service notice, allegedly the dealer can fix it. If you want it fixed for good there are some small changes you can easily make in tune ECU and at the throttle bodies which the dealer won't/can't do.

These are all things I had to do. I had the stalling issue so many roadsters have and the dealer wasn't able to sort it after numerous attempts.

After the below I've never had an unexpected stall in 9 years of ownership (plenty of oops stalls that were my fault though ).

- Raise target idle RPM to 50 over where it is now, helps the ECU catch the stall early before the engine dies to prevent it.
- Add 2 degrees of timing to the whole ignition table below 900 RPM. It helps the engine recover from a stall event by adding power so it can catch itself and recover.
- Adjust the TPS to 0.67v during IACV adjustment. Helps the ECU properly register the actual throttle position and the ECU is less likely to overly close the IACV because it has a correct TPS calibration now.
- With the bike idling and warmed up, turn the closing throttle stop inwards until it "just" kisses the actuation mechanism. This physically prevents the IACV from over closing the throttle during neutral or clutch pulled coasting and mechanically stops it from reaching the stall condition in the first place.

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