Engine Idle Question


Great suggestions, this little bit, brilliant, I hadn't realized that relationship myself, great to know!
 

I have both carbed and EFI Triumphs can certainly diagnose and sort EFI faster than carbs (with my old Trumpy its "yep that feel/looks about right" EFI I can test and measure), but this has got me.

No offence taken, if I was easily offended I wouldn't have posted.

None of us is smarter than all of us.
 
warp9.9 said:
Other then compression testing have you verified valve timing? Also Paul didn't you have a gear position sensor problem? Just thinking out loud
Click to expand...

This is a good point, Pauls bike due to the gear position shaft fault is always telling the ECU its not in neutral as the selectors not feeding back the correct signal. On the attached pic Pauls image says Gear Position is "6" . The safeties have been jacked to keep bike running until repair performed.

There's a separate fuel Map for neutral no? May explain idle fueling issues if bike thinks its in 5th gear.
 

Thanks Speedy.

Pauls is certainly not the first R3 to have an idle problem had my own before.

But as per yesterdays post. We have swapped out New plugs, leads and coils, swapped full EFI system with a system I know to be good, changed ECU also with a spare. Reset all maps and tunes and done so many Resets I lose count with zero change to the way the bikes running.

MAP is well balanced and better than my bike that we have sitting right next to Pauls and are using as a comparison.

My concern has been the ISM being "out of range" and being "zeroed" while in this state we checked the cables and linkages against the spare and my bike. Currently the spare EFI system (entire system with TPS, ISM linkages, injectors etc) is on. We put Pauls and this on the bench and studied the operation before swapping to understand how the components interacted and the operation was the same

Will look into the % idle values
 

Hi Penner and thanks.

Oddly I had been toying with this idea of throwing the NBO2 sensor back in and doing a "proper" Reset Adaption what put me off (other than the hassle) was that due to the fueling I was keen to keep a close eye on the AFR with the WBO2 however as this is not the issue we can change this out now.
 

In regard to the TPS and ISM values

I may have been obsessing with getting Pauls bike to the 0.6 and 0.72V. However my bike has the very original TPS (still waiting for it to fully clap out). It started to fail when I was recently away touring.

What I did was surmise that the 0.12V differential may be more important than the actual 0.6/0.72 values and the TPS was worn and failing by its constant movement at a physical point. As my bike had the common rev "hangup" I connected my Tune ECU and set the TPS to 0.62 and the ISM to 0.74 and it has ran like new since, saved fitting my spare.

Possibly we should be setting up Pauls bike like Bulls, its when I drop the ISM to 0.72 the issues occur on both systems, crank the ISM to 0.75 when can achieve idle, run a 0.15 differential rather than 0.12?
 
Check the video I just posted, it shows the wrong way, and right way to adjust the idle control. On mine, I remembered wrong, its .61/.70, and it runs great, no issues with raising idle on cold starts and slowly backing off to the warmed up value. Since it works well, I didn't adjust the idle control arm, old saying about if it aint broke and all.

Random Tech thoughts vlog as related to Rockets

Episode 4
 
cootertwo said:
WoW! all this stuff makes me think the old Lucas stuff wasn't so bad after all..... just sayin! Ahhh, the good old days of points, condenser and a carb. No meters etc. just read the plugs to adjust fuel ratio, and tinker with the main jets.
Click to expand...

I'm hearin ya my friend but then I think about plug cut tests in the baking sun, burnt fingers, numerous HT shocks, carb icing on cold days, finding the mixtures not right by a hole appearing in the piston, ahhh the good old days.

Oh and standing in my leathers kicking the hell out of it when it wont start, in the sun, in the rain, in the dark..........

One of my good friends bikes the carb actually "FELL OFF!!" on a late night mission @Paul Bryant will remember me banging on the door of his house in the middle of the night scrounging for two BSF nuts. The carb falling off does nothing good for the AFR ratio....
 
If you're adjusting it using the second method in the video (the correct method), and you've swapped all those parts, and everything checks out and it's STILL doing it. I am at a loss, it should work right, and the only thing I can suggest is remove the PC-V, take everything back to stock, tune, o2 sensor, everything and validate that it works like that. Then add one piece at a time until you determine what the problem item is.
 

There is a separate ignition table. Have you tried modifying the tune by copying the neutral ignition table I(N) to I3? You can also copy F1 to F3 and L1 to L3. That way the values at idle are the same despite the gear selector sensor. You may not want to drive the bike this way but you can check idle speed and quality.

Sounds like you have checked everything else.
 
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