EMS Relay Problem

dobro

Supercharged
Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Messages
397
Location
Florida, USA
Ride
2011 R3T
Today I turned the key on my R3T and it was completely dead--nothing. Yesterday it ran fine and I put about 150 miles on it. Before taking off the seat to check the battery I took off the side panel on the clutch side to check the fuses. Just for the heck of it I jiggled the EMS relay and everything lit up and the bike then started right up. Now I'm spooked because I ride a lot in the boonies and can't risk my bike not starting after I've stopped to take a leak. How can I learn if the relay should be replaced instead of just cleaned? It looks like the part is "EFI Relay" T2502109 -- correct? Thanks.
 
Could be the connectors on the relay, break it open and take a look, if all crimps, wiring and terms look good, get a new relay.

You could leave it like it is and it could act as theft protection?
 
If it is dirty, then clean it. Take the relay out of its socket and wipe both the socket and the relay clean. It won't hurt to check the wiring connections as well while you are doing it.
 
The 3 relays of which EMS is the middle one are sold as 1 part: T2502109. Before I start trying to pull it out of its socket I need to know if those 3 relays are a 1 piece unit or 3 separate pieces and whether it pulls out straight vertically or straight horizontally. Thanks.
 
dobro said:
The 3 relays of which EMS is the middle one are sold as 1 part: T2502109.
Click to expand...

That's not what the fiche means - if you order T2502109, you get ONE relay - it's simply that the bike use 3 of that type.

Before I start trying to pull it out of its socket I need to know if those 3 relays are a 1 piece unit or 3 separate pieces and whether it pulls out straight vertically or straight horizontally. Thanks.
Click to expand...

It is three separate relays and you would just pull it out straight vertically
Once you inspect the socket terminals (de-oxidize if necessary) you could also swap it with the Fan Relay for 'quick' fix (although you would be less conscious of it not working in the fan position unless you see it overheating when bike is not moving)
 
I'm doing some electrical work myself right now and I'm "painting" every connector and terminal with some of this (in very sparing amounts) - lots of people raving about its ability to enhance and, well, stabilize electric connectors. $50 for a tiny vial is kind of highway robbery but the one vial will last pretty much forever, you don't use much.


http://www.stabilant.com/ (the web page is a refugee from the 80's...)

Figure it can't hurt and might help.
 
I try to plan ahead, so I carry tools for most situations. I also carry in a small plastic case containing an extra relay, a starter relay, spare fuses, a couple pieces of wire, a little electrical tape, several wire tap connectors and an ignition switch bypass setup. A small compact digital volt/ohm meter comes in handy as well. You should have seen the look on everyone's face when I pulled that out on a long trip to diagnose and fix another guys starting problem. I'm sure they were thinking WTF....this guy has a tester!! I may never need any of it, but I feel better knowing I have those thing with me. I also have a LoneTec cable with an Android phone adapter, a Bluetooth OBD adapter, the PDF's of the circuit wiring on my phone, the full service manual PDF on my phone and the Android version of TuneECU. Anything beyond that, I'm calling my Good SAMs Road Service. I'm also thinking about changing my name to...."analretentive"....what do ya think?

By the way, I also love Hermys for finding parts and part numbers. Just go to...http://www.triumphestore.com
 


croft, I was riding in the rain the day before and I assume the connection in the relay became damp and that's why it wouldn't start the next day. I'm not ready to spend $50 (though it sounds like a good idea) but I am thinking about spraying the EMS relay connection with WD40 because it is susceptible to getting damp. What do you think?
 
wd40 will be gone the next day (or sooner!)

To keep the elements out of the socket, use dielectric grease.
You can pick that up at just about any auto-parts store.
Unplug the socket from its rubber boot, invert it and squeeze the grease into each of the terminal cavities
 
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