Emission removal

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Okay removed all the bits in the picture, capped off all TB connections six in all, bike now running rough will run but idols roughly plus have to twist the throttle to start it up, have I removed something I should not have I know all I have to do is put everything back on and it will be fine but I really want rid of those hoses also check engine light staying on even after a five mile run not connected my ecu cable to check it yet.
 
That looks like more stuff than I took off, now I will have to go look and see where the other hose goes.

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bob
 
This thread covers it pretty well. You can either remove all of the hoses and cap the tits on the throttle bodies or just cap/plug the line labeled pipe B in the above thread. I was going to balance my throttle bodies so I removed all of the hoses while I had access. It will take four 5/32" caps to put on the throttle bodies if you remove all of the hoses. You will also need a length of hose to run from the roll-over valve to the ground.
It was pretty straight forward. Don't bother looking for bolts or nuts holding the canister in place, it is zip-tied in place. Just cut the zip ties and it will fall into your hands. If you have a full tank tank of gas before you tilt the tank you may want to put a small piece of hose on the bottom of the roll over valve and plug it.
It opens up quite a bit of space behind the side cover. Quite a few people have mounted a Stebel horn there.
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bob

Right in that there newly created hole, I placed my Stebel.
Works great!
BTW - I just re-routed pipe B back up to the upper connector on #3 for a closed loop.
NO CODES - all good for 5K miles.
Evap Cannister Removal.jpg
 
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image.jpeg
Okay removed all the bits in the picture, capped off all TB connections six in all, bike now running rough will run but idols roughly plus have to twist the throttle to start it up, have I removed something I should not have I know all I have to do is put everything back on and it will be fine but I really want rid of those hoses also check engine light staying on even after a five mile run not connected my ecu cable to check it yet.

I think you may have removed the hose (one from each TB) that join together at a 4 way plastic cross-shaped connector. The fourth leg of the connector has a slightly wider diameter hose that goes to the manifold air pressure sensor. The 4 way connector can be found, with the tank up, about half way along the frame rail on the right hand side. It would certainly cause the issues you described.

Hope this helps,
Mark
 
I think you may have removed the hose (one from each TB) that join together at a 4 way plastic cross-shaped connector. The fourth leg of the connector has a slightly wider diameter hose that goes to the manifold air pressure sensor. The 4 way connector can be found, with the tank up, about half way along the frame rail on the right hand side. It would certainly cause the issues you described.

Hope this helps,
Mark

Correct Mark that was the first part that I put back on fired up no problem and the check engine light ran away. Will put the rest of the parts in a box and stash it beside my other stuff:D
 
I haven't decided whether to excise mine...it works....and more depends on whether I wish to use the space it occupies for something else.
 
I haven't decided whether to excise mine...it works....and more depends on whether I wish to use the space it occupies for something else.

If I didn't get the occasional sputtering and difficulty to keep running after a fill up when I put too much gas in or filling up in the AM and having it sputter and try to stall for a while on the way home I would have left mine in place also....but those things were enough for me to finally pull it off. I will probably use the space for some electrical doodad pretty soon.

bob
 
Yes, my 2013 R3T had emissions on it. If I put just a tiny too much fuel in it and it overflowed into the canister it would barely run as it tried to put the fuel back into the throttle bodies. It would sometimes happen if I fueled in the AM and then the bike sat at work all day and the fuel heated up, overflowing into the canister. It would spit, sputter, and take an huge amount of throttle (relatively speaking) to keep running.

Well, I finally had enough when I fueled up on a trip and as soon as I pulled out of the gas station it tried to die in front of traffic, not real good.

It was pretty straight forward, trace the hoses, pop them off of the throttle bodies and put 5/32" rubber caps on the tits. Run a new overflow line from the roll over valve to dump onto mother earth and you are done. I wasn't sure what size was going to work so I picked up a boxed assortment at AutoZone. Now I have 26 larger caps they can sell at my estate sale in 30 years or so. ;)

This is what was removed. I wish I had done it sooner. If you want it let me know.

While I was there I inspected the RamAir and it has no issues with cracking or other failures. It has been on for a couple of years now. Clamps are snug and I also have it held on with zip ties, which may be overkill because it sits down on the throttle bodies like it belongs there.

bob


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I am in process of removing the fuel evap. canister. New lines and plugs on carbs but what to do with electric hookup on canister? Also installed a RamAir system on the bike and got rid of all that ducting. Made hooking up Triumph spotlights a lot easier.

Bill
 
I also overfilled on trip last summer, and rather than the engine trying to suck it up, it went to the ground, and everyone though I had a leak. I explained that it would quit dripping when the tank either used some up or we got in a shady area. But, I am going to excise the canister and assorted plumbing too, if for no other reason but to make room for my Suzuki rectifier that is gathering dust on my workbench!
 
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