Emission removal

Bob R said:

This thread covers it pretty well. You can either remove all of the hoses and cap the tits on the throttle bodies or just cap/plug the line labeled pipe B in the above thread. I was going to balance my throttle bodies so I removed all of the hoses while I had access. It will take four 5/32" caps to put on the throttle bodies if you remove all of the hoses. You will also need a length of hose to run from the roll-over valve to the ground.
It was pretty straight forward. Don't bother looking for bolts or nuts holding the canister in place, it is zip-tied in place. Just cut the zip ties and it will fall into your hands. If you have a full tank tank of gas before you tilt the tank you may want to put a small piece of hose on the bottom of the roll over valve and plug it.
It opens up quite a bit of space behind the side cover. Quite a few people have mounted a Stebel horn there.

bob

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scot in exile said:

Okay removed all the bits in the picture, capped off all TB connections six in all, bike now running rough will run but idols roughly plus have to twist the throttle to start it up, have I removed something I should not have I know all I have to do is put everything back on and it will be fine but I really want rid of those hoses also check engine light staying on even after a five mile run not connected my ecu cable to check it yet.

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Mark Dunn said:

I think you may have removed the hose (one from each TB) that join together at a 4 way plastic cross-shaped connector. The fourth leg of the connector has a slightly wider diameter hose that goes to the manifold air pressure sensor. The 4 way connector can be found, with the tank up, about half way along the frame rail on the right hand side. It would certainly cause the issues you described.

Hope this helps,
Mark

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rocketjohn said:

I haven't decided whether to excise mine...it works....and more depends on whether I wish to use the space it occupies for something else.

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Bob R said:

Yes, my 2013 R3T had emissions on it. If I put just a tiny too much fuel in it and it overflowed into the canister it would barely run as it tried to put the fuel back into the throttle bodies. It would sometimes happen if I fueled in the AM and then the bike sat at work all day and the fuel heated up, overflowing into the canister. It would spit, sputter, and take an huge amount of throttle (relatively speaking) to keep running.

Well, I finally had enough when I fueled up on a trip and as soon as I pulled out of the gas station it tried to die in front of traffic, not real good.

It was pretty straight forward, trace the hoses, pop them off of the throttle bodies and put 5/32" rubber caps on the tits. Run a new overflow line from the roll over valve to dump onto mother earth and you are done. I wasn't sure what size was going to work so I picked up a boxed assortment at AutoZone. Now I have 26 larger caps they can sell at my estate sale in 30 years or so.

This is what was removed. I wish I had done it sooner. If you want it let me know.

While I was there I inspected the RamAir and it has no issues with cracking or other failures. It has been on for a couple of years now. Clamps are snug and I also have it held on with zip ties, which may be overkill because it sits down on the throttle bodies like it belongs there.

bob

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