electrical problem

TURBO200R4 said:

seems like a lot of guys has missed this thread.
i think that first u need to make sure of your battery
put volt meter across the bat and read volts while running your checks>
the obd connector has a positive and negative terminal and low volts u would have a problem.
i would also check volts at the fuses.
i think that the voltage at the alarm connector is correct with the loop installed it should power up the bike.

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i checked the battery volts and the fuses, all fuses were ok and registered same volts as the battery.

it just seems the ecu is not powering up, i already checked the ecm relay and even swapped it to the cooling fan relay, even installed a new relay, still nothing.

Stillserving said:

Not being argumentative, but how do you know the battery is in tiptop shape? Just because it's been on a battery tender doesn't mean it's necessarily good. Especially if it happened after you were working on it for awhile. The ECM is especially finicky about voltage/current from the battery. If it gets below a certain point, it quits communicating properly and you get those same symptoms. Sometimes needles will sweep, sometimes even the fuel pump will prime, but push the button and nothing happens. I would either charge the battery for awhile without touching it, or even better find another battery, even from a car to see if it'll start.

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you have a point, it could be the battery but i tried using my few weeks old battery for my bmw k1200s and i still have the same problem. no prime on the pump, no stepper motor and secondaries. tuneecu wont even detect my ecu so im kinda stuck, no way to tell for errors.

TURBO200R4 said:

on your bike do u have the alarm or the loop connector?

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i have the alarm bypass loop thing.
already checked the voltages on the pins, it registers the same voltage as the battery when the key is in ON and kill switch on RUN

Jason Jurgens said:

What is your battery voltage, with tender disconnected?

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few days after fully charging the battery, it says 12.8v this morning

Voltage isn't the only factor of a good battery. If you have a dead or dying cell, voltage could be in the OK range, but when you start cranking or asking it to do it's job, that demand causes the bad cell to basically drop off line and the power isn't available to do what it should. Only way to really tell is to put it under a load and see what it does, preferably with a load tester.

That being said, IF the other battery you used is a known good asset with the same or better load rating, then you kinda checked that box.

When you checked your fuses / relays, did you inspect the sockets for any corrosion or loose contacts? When checking, try pushing down/in on the contacts as sometimes they get loose in the holder, when the blades of the fuse or relay press on them while being plugged in, they can pop out the back and cause loose connections. Also some fuses have been known to get hot and slightly melt the fuse holder basically causing the issue I discussed above as well.

Inspect grounds for loose connections/corrosion. Inspect wire harnesses, especially in the areas where you were most recently working. There have been some who have experienced corrosion in the harnesses, especially at any splice points.

Do you have power at the OBGYN connector? If not I think that would indicate a problem not sure of the cable is like the normal cable which you can plug in alone and it has a light on it. Remember I am stupid whe it comes to the phone app. !!!!!

warp9.9 said:

Do you have power at the OBGYN connector? If not I think that would indicate a problem not sure of the cable is like the normal cable which you can plug in alone and it has a light on it. Remember I am stupid whe it comes to the phone app. !!!!!

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did you mean obd connector? sorry you got me at obgyn connector hehehe. yes theres power at the obd connector, theres light and also i checked the voltage and continuity.

is there a way to test the ecu if it is getting power? or perhaps a test if it is still functioning?

If you can connect to the OBD connector with the appropriate reader, and establish communication, that would be proof.

A number of us use the LonElec able and TuneECU. A Dealer Tool would work, as well as taking the bike to the dealer if that's possible and have them use their factory software.

With the LonElec cable, it draws its power from the ECU, so if that lights up upon connection, you'd be way ahead.

Joesmoe said:

If you can connect to the OBD connector with the appropriate reader, and establish communication, that would be proof.

A number of us use the LonElec able and TuneECU. A Dealer Tool would work, as well as taking the bike to the dealer if that's possible and have them use their factory software.

With the LonElec cable, it draws its power from the ECU, so if that lights up upon connection, you'd be way ahead.

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i already have the cable and it was working prior to the problem im having, now tune ecu wont recognize the ecu, the cable when connected still has the led light on.

i was thinking if is theres a way to check using a multimeter on the ecu pins to tell if its getting powered or not. i already checked on the ecu relay and it has power going in the ecu. i just cant understand why tune ecu wont detect it. also the fyel pump wont prime anymore, the stepper motor and secondaries wont move anymore after i turn the ignition and kill switch on.