Electrical Gremlin Strikes Again

I think in your troubleshooting process, you may have created one or more additional problems. You have received a lot of good suggestions. Some of them might have led you down the wrong path. Address one issue at a time and make sure you solve it. You have to have enough electrical savvy to ignore those comments that don't make sense related to your problem.



Lets get back to the original clue you provided. Wiggling the wire harness allowed you to start the bike. Was a broken wire or defective ignition found? I think you stated the white wire appeared to be melted/recessed in the switch. Was this fixed? What about the provided examples of poor crimps in the harness? Was this inspected? Sounds like you still have this problem.

Also, you stated honking the horn started your bike a few times. This is another clue that needs to be followed.



We need to know how you wired a toggle switch into the start circuit. The ignition switch provides power to several circuits, not just the starter relay. You may have caused another problem with this mod...

The toggle switch connects the yellow and brown wires to the white. I have twisted the white / black and white / green wires together in an attempt to duplicate the connections that happen when the ignition switch is turned to "on." I will read the thread that you recommended
 
I've read the thread now, and I see that his problem was fixed by unplugging everything and plugging it back in.

Here's my running theory on what has gone wrong:
The aftermarket horn was wired improperly. The wire that fed voltage to the horn through the relay merged with the signal wire on the other side of the relay, which I imagine put strain on something further down the line. No fuses were burnt, but I imagine something was.
 
first of all i would like to say Gregger i love your posts.
we were thinking alone those lines (ground problems) thats why i suggested running the ground wire from the eng relay to the neg bat to back feed. but i dought it was ever done.
we do not know how the horn was shorted. but it probably took a toll on the ground system.
also he said ( i think) that it sometimes worked after he used the horn maybe helped the ground connection.
also i agree that the pic of that connector appears to be burnt.
also ohming that connection is worthless the only way to check is unplug and visual or do a voltage drop across that connection. for example it is possible that u can have a single small wire that will show that it is connected but will not carry a load.
 
ps
on the neg side bat post looks like u have a wire coming from the right on to the post looks mickey mouse (no connector) ?
whats up with the blue wires coming off the neg post?
 
I had a no start issue, with keyless ignition, though, as near as I can tell I fixed it by unplugging and replugging in the main harness, all I can think of as it's been fine since. Maybe wasn't snapped tight?
 
first of all i would like to say Gregger i love your posts.
we were thinking alone those lines (ground problems) thats why i suggested running the ground wire from the eng relay to the neg bat to back feed. but i dought it was ever done.
we do not know how the horn was shorted. but it probably took a toll on the ground system.
also he said ( i think) that it sometimes worked after he used the horn maybe helped the ground connection.
also i agree that the pic of that connector appears to be burnt.
also ohming that connection is worthless the only way to check is unplug and visual or do a voltage drop across that connection. for example it is possible that u can have a single small wire that will show that it is connected but will not carry a load.

Yes, I did run a ground wire from the engine management relay to the negative on the battery. The bike sometimes recovered from the blank dash when the horn button was pressed. The connector has a ton of grease on it, I will clean it and take good pictures of it when I get home this evening. I did not think that it looked burnt, but you all may have a better perspective than I do.

ps
on the neg side bat post looks like u have a wire coming from the right on to the post looks mickey mouse (no connector) ?
whats up with the blue wires coming off the neg post?

The mickey mouse connection is to the trickle charger connector. The blue wires are from the aftermarket running lights, fog lights, and horn that I have installed. The running lights are the only ones that connect directly to a toggle switch and the battery, the horn and fog lights are on relays that are toggled by the original switch wiring.
 
story about grounds
dodge pu shifting back and forth at around 35
all i do is to clean one ground connection down to the bare metal and that takes care of the problem.:)
all dodge pu's i clean all the grounds when we rebuild the transmissions so i will not have problems.
 
I don't think this looks burnt
15846602930245152930768151452485.jpg 1584660371650682703559602703259.jpg 15846603909351822008853376513275.jpg
 
looks good to me as long as u have resistance when u plug it back in.
i know it appears that we r picky but that is what it takes to find problems it the wiring connectors. or anywhere else.
 
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