Easy Simple Preventative Waterproofing! Ten dollars. 2020 Plus.

[DocTom]

While installing a new windshield, I noticed water intrusion, dirt and corrosion under the black cowling. Less than 1000 miles! See pics:

Look at all the dirt and sediment:

I noticed a gap in the black rubber seal where the water was obviously entering the compartment. Dealer had no explanation. So I ordered some "V-Gasket" or "Rubber U Channel Edge" for $9.99 on Amazon. Whole installation took 15 minutes!

 

[TURBO200R4]

There were a couple of others that posted pics and they had this same gap. The only reason that i can imagine is to let it dry out when it gets moisture in there.
Personaly i think your idea is going to work but I would keep an eye on it just in case.

 

[stingray]

Mine is clean and dry too. I put the seam at the top. There are more than enough openings on the bottom for it to drain. If it has to drain out there you are in deep sludge.

 

[DocTom]

There were a couple of others that posted pics and they had this same gap. The only reason that i can imagine is to let it dry out when it gets moisture in there.
Personaly i think your idea is going to work but I would keep an eye on it just in case.

TURBO I thought the same thing at first. But after you close that gap, there remains an adequate opening BELOW to allow water to easily drain out. Plus, if you look ar the gap I closed, water would have to flow uphill to get out!

 

[stingray]

TURBO I thought the same thing at first. But after you close that gap, there remains an adequate opening BELOW to allow water to easily drain out. Plus, if you look ar the gap I closed, water would have to flow uphill to get out!

That opening can't allow the cavity to drain. It allows the crud IN. When I opened mine there was a whole dragonfly that had been forced in there. I can't imagine the reasoning to allow rain and road grime directly into an enclosed electrical panel. Good catch.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Okay. I agree with you guys 99.99999% of the time although... The cowling should not have the seal added at the bottom as it's open by design. Only due to the sh**** coverage with the rubber seal on the top of the cowl. The top of my cowl is open 1/4" down to 1/16" for around 5" at the top. It isn't flush. It should be but it isn't because they use the same width seal on the entire cowl not allowing for the expansion at the top. I have a feeling it's the same on all Rockets. I looked at DocToms pics and the water traveled down the right side (looking from a front of Rocket angle) and accumulated on the right side. Some did make it to the bottom but due to traveling (riding) it blew it back up in other areas. The left side doesn't have much of any stains. Also underneath the top of the cowl looking forward while on the Rocket the wires go into a gap that isn't sealed. The water follows the covered wires into the cowl unit. So in essence the water is coming in through the top of the cowl and the bottom where the wires go into the cowl and then travels down the left side forming in areas on the right side (or left side) while sitting on the Rocket. It travels down the left side and pools. When you take off and ride the pooled water sitting on the bottom of the cowl that didn't drain shoots up due to the wind and splatters the right side facing the rockets front. The bottom should be left open for drainage although due to the incline and angle it would take quite a bit of water to pour out of there. Most of it pools at the bottom and gets blown back up towards the top. The top and wires need to be waterproofed and not the bottom. Why they didn't is beyond me. I guess it's easier to leave the rubber out at the bottom than waterproof everything up top.

 

[stingray]

Nothing can drain out the front. It is higher than the other drain holes. Why even allow it in? Your seal needs to be reset so the cowl forms a watertight seal when tightened. I'll prefer to keep the water out in the first place.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Nothing can drain out the front. It is higher than the other drain holes. Why even allow it in? Your seal needs to be reset so the cowl forms a watertight seal when tightened. I'll prefer to keep the water out in the first place.

Then reseal the top and wires going into the cowl like they should have if you want it water tight. The bottom hole is probably for condensation or the water running down inside the cowl from the top and wire (and the bottom). Horrible design and it makes little sense why they did this.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Might be that with the bike on side stand and the forks all the way to left you could drill a drain hole at the bottom of the assembly to empty the assy.

 

[DocTom]

Interesting discussion. I didn’t anticipate that there would be any controversy. Maybe it’s not quite as straightforward as I initially thought. I am going to drive the motorcycle for another thousand miles or so with the bottom sealed and then I will reopen the compartment.

I didn’t want to complicate the thread, but the windshield I just installed was the second one. So I have had two chances to inspect the compartment. And so over the last thousand miles, without question, additional crud has definitely been accumulating in the compartment while that gap was present. I promise! My hunch is that if I check it again, there will be less crud in there. But I will post my outcome and be honest! I live near the ocean and so corrosion is a constant nemesis.