FlyingSardar
Life,Liberty & the High Speed Pursuit of Happiness
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2021
- Messages
- 4
- Ride
- Rocket3 GT
Hey Folks, I just got the GT version of the bike a couple weeks ago. Love it. Love it. Love it... especially after putting in the shift assist.
I've been lurking around the forum trying to see what folks are doing with the bike. Now I'm trying to personalize it and round off a bit of sharp the edges. Here's something that helped me.
Coming from a VROD I like the foot forward position of the controls but the legs get stiff on long hauls (typically do around 500-700 miles a day) in the same position. Given that there are places to mount mid controls, I wanted to put in pegs to give the legs a different position. Think mid mount highway pegs ??
I got a couple of cheap rear extension pegs for a FJR off ebay and a few spacers/screws from McMaster-Carr. I used the same mount points as the factory mid control plates used on the block. I had to widen the screw hole in the footrest extension plates I got to have the M10 and M8 bolts go thru. The plates and footrest can be rotated around to give different heights and forward back positions. The hole on the kickstand is a bit towards the rear and the lower so I moved the extension bar a bit at an angle.
Switching between the front and rears takes a bit of getting used to especially when wanting to change gears or using the rear brake. I instinctively stabbed at the non present controls at the mid position and it took some effort to remember to switch to fronts when needed. But the bike has enough of a powerband that you really don't need to change gears and the front brake alone can work in many cases. Also at high speed the wind pushed my shoe onto the exhaust ( see black spot on the right pic) while switching since I didn't have a guard to guide me.
I was afraid the right side would be too close to the exhaust and hot but that wasn't the case (other then during switching - see above). The footrests are not very wide so the entire shoe is not supported. I could get some larger pegs but I wanted something a bit discreet. By no means is this setup ideal in term of looks but it is a quick enough hack and the m-factor pegs blend in pretty well. Even if I have to unscrew this for normal city riding to look cool and put it back when I go for a longer ride.
Here's a parts list if anyone is interested..
Shinobi rear passenger foot pegs
93395A535 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, M8 x 1.25mm Thread, 80mm Long
Fine-Thread Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 80 mm Long,
18-8 Stainless Steel Unthreaded Spacer, 16 mm OD, 50 mm Long, for M10 Screw Size
18-8 Stainless Steel Unthreaded Spacer, 3/4" OD, 2" Long, for 5/16" Screw Size
Note on the left side I use a socket cap in black cause I could not find a M10x1.25 mm flat head machine screw (M10 usually has a 1.5mm pitch)
I've been lurking around the forum trying to see what folks are doing with the bike. Now I'm trying to personalize it and round off a bit of sharp the edges. Here's something that helped me.
Coming from a VROD I like the foot forward position of the controls but the legs get stiff on long hauls (typically do around 500-700 miles a day) in the same position. Given that there are places to mount mid controls, I wanted to put in pegs to give the legs a different position. Think mid mount highway pegs ??
I got a couple of cheap rear extension pegs for a FJR off ebay and a few spacers/screws from McMaster-Carr. I used the same mount points as the factory mid control plates used on the block. I had to widen the screw hole in the footrest extension plates I got to have the M10 and M8 bolts go thru. The plates and footrest can be rotated around to give different heights and forward back positions. The hole on the kickstand is a bit towards the rear and the lower so I moved the extension bar a bit at an angle.
Switching between the front and rears takes a bit of getting used to especially when wanting to change gears or using the rear brake. I instinctively stabbed at the non present controls at the mid position and it took some effort to remember to switch to fronts when needed. But the bike has enough of a powerband that you really don't need to change gears and the front brake alone can work in many cases. Also at high speed the wind pushed my shoe onto the exhaust ( see black spot on the right pic) while switching since I didn't have a guard to guide me.
I was afraid the right side would be too close to the exhaust and hot but that wasn't the case (other then during switching - see above). The footrests are not very wide so the entire shoe is not supported. I could get some larger pegs but I wanted something a bit discreet. By no means is this setup ideal in term of looks but it is a quick enough hack and the m-factor pegs blend in pretty well. Even if I have to unscrew this for normal city riding to look cool and put it back when I go for a longer ride.
Here's a parts list if anyone is interested..
Shinobi rear passenger foot pegs
93395A535 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, M8 x 1.25mm Thread, 80mm Long
Fine-Thread Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 80 mm Long,
18-8 Stainless Steel Unthreaded Spacer, 16 mm OD, 50 mm Long, for M10 Screw Size
18-8 Stainless Steel Unthreaded Spacer, 3/4" OD, 2" Long, for 5/16" Screw Size
Note on the left side I use a socket cap in black cause I could not find a M10x1.25 mm flat head machine screw (M10 usually has a 1.5mm pitch)