driveshaft questions and others

warp9.9 said:

Check plugs yes, also check the low tension lead feeding the coils the female spade connectors loosen up and will give you a erratic miss ya can't chase down. Its a 08 so start thinking about installing new vacuum lines and the nipple plug caps. You do not need to pull the drive shaft just the bevel box on the rear one shock bolt 4 bevel box bolts. You'll see the drive shaft splines grease the. And the internal cup on the box. I leave a blob in the bottom of the cup. This is a good time to renew the bevel box oil. Watch out not to over torque the drain plug its hollow and filled with a magnet so it strips the threads off easily. The fill plug is higher torque and much beefier. While your down there clean the positive to the starter and pull the crank angle sensor and wipe it off clean. Its a magnetic pick up so it can collect some trash. There will only be a table spoon of oil coming out when you do this. 30,000 miles you should check the drop measurement on the auto tensioner plunger (never turn motor over when the centre bolt is out of the tensioner.) If the plunger drop is 16 mm its time to add the spacer to bring the spring tension back up to specifications.

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anybody have pics, diagrams, or good descriptions of where the crank angle sensor and auto sensor plunger are? i think i can find the vacuum lines, caps and coil leads. thanks

snicrep said:

anybody have pics, diagrams, or good descriptions of where the crank angle sensor and auto sensor plunger are? i think i can find the vacuum lines, caps and coil leads. thanks

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Crank sensor is on the bottom rear of the engine 1 bolt 8mm. Easy to pick out. The auto tensioner is the automatic timing chain tensioner it is spring loaded. Aka auto tensioner. This is what keeps the slack out if the timing chain and keeps mr. Pistons from contacting the valves. Its in the manual but it mounted on the right front side of the engine. Close to and just in front the number one exhaust port.
Hope this helps

warp9.9 said:

Crank sensor is on the bottom rear of the engine 1 bolt 8mm. Easy to pick out. The auto tensioner is the automatic timing chain tensioner it is spring loaded. Aka auto tensioner. This is what keeps the slack out if the timing chain and keeps mr. Pistons from contacting the valves. Its in the manual but it mounted on the right front side of the engine. Close to and just in front the number one exhaust port.
Hope this helps

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That helps alot thanks

today I changed the spark plugs, the fuel filter, emptied the gas and put fresh i checked and cleaned the crank sensor which looked clean.. It turns out it has a k&n air filter which was filthy. i cleaned it and re-oiled it, I attempte to remove the plenum to see if the throttle bodies were dirty but i was running out of time and was afraid id break something. I did remove the 2 screws and loosened 5 clamps but it really stuck on. i took off and for the first 10 miles it felt pretty good then the missing returned. it hiccups or jerks breifly a couple of times a backfire out of the exhaust. i can accelerate out of it fine but it occurs when at a steady rpm. not sure if its ignition or fuel system. the dirty air filter makes me lean toward something in the air?fuel. spark plugs looked normal. ive only had this bike 3 wks and had no problem at first but this has developed. can the tuneecu program show me coild and sensor data to see iff there is a problem there? im thinking plug?coil wire? maybe remove the throttle bodies and check and clean. id like to thing it is a bad sensor somewhere like maf or something. i couldnt find much in the way of vacuum lines except the ones on top that t in together and they werent spongey. any help is appreciated. id like to ride this thing.

And did you ever check the spade connections on the 3 coils? A computer will not diagnose or fix such a problem.

cootertwo said:

And did you ever check the spade connections on the 3 coils? A computer will not diagnose or fix such a problem.

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I did check #2 &#3 and they were clean and had a little dielectric grease on them. I didnt check # 1. But ill do that next. I shouldnt assume .

snicrep said:

I did check #2 &#3 and they were clean and had a little dielectric grease on them. I didnt check # 1. But ill do that next. I shouldnt assume .

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#1 was bad on @Tripps

You said this just started? Do you put the same gas in everytme, what do you use? The fuel line in the tank busted on @Steel and possibly a dirty fuel filter. From reading thats where id be going but it could be the tune, have you done a reset adaptation, just thinking out loud, youll find the problem no doubt.

Kevin frazier said:

You said this just started? Do you put the same gas in everytme, what do you use? The fuel line in the tank busted on @Steel and possibly a dirty fuel filter. From reading thats where id be going but it could be the tune, have you done a reset adaptation, just thinking out loud, youll find the problem no doubt.

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I put a new filter in and verything looked in good shape. It started messing up after i filled up from a diff place but i dumped most of the gas and i couldnt see anything obvious. It is stock far as i know. Only mod ive found is a k&n in the airbox. 08 r3t with 31000mi.
Im going to check vacuum closer and fuel injectors. Im waiting on a lonetec cable.

tourings only run on the best fuel sometimes @warp9.9 and others say reinstall that tune, always remembering to read save what you have currently. 08 tourings are probably the best motorcycle ever made, especially black w gray check more stuff and youll probaly find a little problem. that tune did you load it?