Don't over torque oil drain plugs.

T Evans

Supercharged
Joined
Jun 23, 2009
Messages
394
Location
North Central Oklahoma
Changed the oil and filter today for the first time. When I installed the first of the 3 plugs, I put a pretty good pull on it. I noticed that it didn't feel like it was torquing up. Then I remembered what I read here about not to over tighten the plugs for fear of stripping out the threads. I installed the other 2 plugs and I just pulled them tight then added another 1/4 turn on them. I hope I didn't over tighten the first one I installed. Wonder how much that bottom cover is new in the event I have stripped the hole out next time I go to change the oil?
For you guys that have not changed your oil yet, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT over tighten the oil drain plugs. The bottom cover is cast aluminum and the plugs are steel and can easily be stripped if you get to rough with them.

Big T
 
Thanks for the tip, getting ready to change mine for the first time. Good luck with your issue.
 
when i changed my oil just before maggie valley i had the same fear, i think i was a little too rough with my plugs, it still holding so far but.......
 
I made the investment in a torque wrench. Something close to $50 for piece of mind. I use it when I pull the wheels off as well.
 
All you have to do is "snug them". Just screw in the plugs until they stop; then give the rachet (or wrench) a good, momentary force.... like energetically twisting off the top of a beer bottle cap. Only in reverse.

Of course, a torque wrench works as well. But if you don't have one; all of you should be familiar with opening a beer bottle. Right?

 
Not me, will opening a 7up show the same results?
 
Some tricks I've learned doing many oil changes on the Rocket:
1. Make sure to get the right three plugs (you'll really feel the ninny when you pull one and nothing comes out)
2. I wrap teflon tape on the plugs to ensure a good seal without trying to wrinkle the torx head socket on installation.
3. Use a proper filter wrench to remove the old filter and tighten the new filter to just touching plus 1/4 turn. Much more and you'll be using a screwdriver hammered through the filter to get it off (like I said learned).
3. Make sure the bike is level when draining (unless you like a pint of the old stuff left over).
4. While you're down there anyway clean the crank speed sensor.
5. Wipe everything dry when done (you might even remove some barnacles since you're under there anyway).
6. Don't forget to start the bike and recheck the oil after shutdown (to top up, its better than riding 400 miles only to discover you're 2 quarts low).
Happy riding!
 

That's a no-no. The teflon tape that's proud of the thread (inside) can flake off and possibly get lodged somewhere (bad) before it gets to the oil filter.

Put 'em in dry and a new aluminum sealing washer or run the old washer over a bastard cut flat file to remove the ridges and reuse (that's what I do 'cause I'm cheap).

If yoiu strip the threads in the sump plate, it's an easy matter to remove it and on the bench, insert a Heli-coil thread repair insert. Besides, it will give you a change to peek inside at the works...

The vertical twins (Bonnie, Thrux and Scrambler) all have a thin pressure cast aluminum sump (think Briggs and Stratton engine) that cracks easily if the drain plug is reefed on, necessitating sump replacement.

I suspect that 15 foot pounds is plenty.
 
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