Do 5 3/4" Daymakers fit into stock buckets?

[barbagris]

Furore have some good ideas - but most are NOT homologated for European roads.
On the whole sourced in Taiwan. Some VERY much aimed at CHEAP Kit Car solutions.
I'm sure it would be easy enough to track down the mfr on Alibaba.

Could lead to MoT problems. Just be aware. If they don't say "E" approved - they're not.

Also if you intend to use the built in indicators - again check the reg's as there WAS a minimum distance ’twixt h/lights and indicators in the UK - 4" iirc.

And if they really are bright headlights - nobody will see the indicators either. Depends if you want folk to see the indicators or not. Justifiable SMIDSY caveat.

Depending on the 4 * CREE LEDs used - 3850lm is easily achievable. Though at 30Watts draw it'll be RAW lumens. Actually from the pictures, my gut says 5 LEDs per light unit. The dips maybe multiple emitter too - it makes sense on split "D" lenses as well as being cheaper.

JW Speaker (Harley Daymaker) spec's are lower - but because of the LEDs they use. Less efficient (lumens/watt) - but MUCH MORE robust.

And this matters - I have done my best for example to burn out the LEDs used in Audi lights. Can't. But have sizzled several CREE.

 

[barbagris]

Anyway you can verify that claimed 3850 lumen? - sounds like a very high claim to me.

Tish & Pish - a CREE XM-L2 can easily turn out 1000 each - pushed to maximum. CREE spec them as 1198 but qualify it later as 1052. In real live 8-900 is more realistic. 900*4=3800 - ish.

 

[wordwarrior]

Furore have some good ideas - but most are NOT homologated for European roads.
On the whole sourced in Taiwan. Some VERY much aimed at CHEAP Kit Car solutions.
I'm sure it would be easy enough to track down the mfr on Alibaba.

Could lead to MoT problems. Just be aware. If they don't say "E" approved - they're not.

Also if you intend to use the built in indicators - again check the reg's as there WAS a minimum distance ’twixt h/lights and indicators in the UK - 4" iirc.

And if they really are bright headlights - nobody will see the indicators either. Depends if you want folk to see the indicators or not. Justifiable SMIDSY caveat.

Depending on the 4 * CREE LEDs used - 3850lm is easily achievable. Though at 30Watts draw it'll be RAW lumens. Actually from the pictures, my gut says 5 LEDs per light unit. The dips maybe multiple emitter too - it makes sense on split "D" lenses as well as being cheaper.

JW Speaker (Harley Daymaker) spec's are lower - but because of the LEDs they use. Less efficient (lumens/watt) - but MUCH MORE robust.

And this matters - I have done my best for example to burn out the LEDs used in Audi lights. Can't. But have sizzled several CREE.

You are absolutely right on the E approval. There are no markings whatsoever on the lens, not even a "top" indicator. A little annoyed about that!!

As for fit:
If you remove the ring that stops the existing headlight from rotating in the bezel then they fit but then there's no registration notches so it could easily go out of alignment. When I say they'll fit I mean you would have to re-work the wiring to accommodate the Canbus driver, which is doable but a little fiddly I reckon.
I didn't get to check the angel eyes or the indicators (I wasn't going to use the indicators, not only as stated by barbagris they are too close to be legal but in reality they'd be too ****ed confusing) they required a little extra wiring and I'd already decided to return them based on type approval and the fitting.
Such a shame as they look the part but with my MOT due next month I'm going to have to rethink this.

 

[wordwarrior]

..... On further investigation apparently there is no requirement under UK law for the E marking or the british Kite mark. Basically as long as they don't dazzle oncoming traffic they're okay to use.

"5. Markings–

(a) Any vehicle not covered by sub-paragraph (b), (c) or (d):

An approval mark or a British Standard mark
(b) A motor vehicle first used before 1st April 1986:

No requirement
(c) A three-wheeled motor vehicle, not being a motor bicycle combination, first used on or after 1st April 1986 and having a maximum speed not exceeding 50 mph:

No requirement
(d) A solo motor bicycle and a motor bicycle combination:

No requirement
6. Size of illuminated area:

No requirement
7. Colour:

White or yellow
8. Wattage–

(a) A motor vehicle with four or more wheels first used on or after 1st April 1986:

No requirement
(b) A three-wheeled motor vehicle, not being a motor bicycle combination, first used on or after 1st April 1986–

(i)having a maximum speed not exceeding 50 mph:

15 watts minimum
(ii)having a maximum speed exceeding 50 mph:

No requirement
(c) A motor vehicle with four or more wheels first used before 1st April 1986:

30 watts minimum
(d) A three-wheeled motor vehicle, not being a motor bicycle combination, first used before 1st April 1986:

24 watts minimum
(e) A solo motor bicycle and a motor bicycle combination–

(i)having an engine not exceeding 250 cc and a maximum speed not exceeding 25 mph:

10 watts minimum
(ii)having an engine not exceeding 250 cc and a maximum speed exceeding 25 mph:

15 watts minimum
(iii)having an engine exceeding 250 cc:

24 watts minimum
9. Intensity:

No requirement"
​

There is however the tiny problem of getting the buggers to fit.
Watch this space.

 

[wordwarrior]

Okay another step closer. The OEM registration ring inside diameter - as it turns out - is only marginally too small for the LED housing, I'd say no more than a millimetre overall so only needs half a millimetre trimming which is doable without destroying them for reinstatement of the OEM headlights at a later date. This is good news. Also, the huge chunk of kit called a CANBUS driver can be left out as the R3R doesn't do CANBUS which leaves a little more space inside the shell which was tight to start with.
I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel
Apart from trimming the inside diameter of the rings there is of course the matter of the 4 registration lugs on the LED's. I'm holding off cutting the slots for these until I have the trimmed rings in place so I can mark the top position accurately.

Watch this space.

 

[wordwarrior]

Having to put this on the back burner for a couple of weeks due to work commitments and rather than rush things I'd rather get it right at my own pace, also the bike's MOT (roadworthiness test) is coming up and want to get through that for the same reason. If I get the fit wrong then that could be a fail. It's not far off but I don't want to screw it up. See you on the other side.