Desperate for diagnosis!!

I have been experiencing similar issues and before replacing the primary or secondary tps I simply applied some dielectric grease to both plugs and have been trouble free for 4 days/925 miles. I am an all-weather rider and that is yet another reason to carry a tube of dielectric in the bag. Ride on!!
 
warp9.9 could you provide some instructions on how to reset the stepper motors

to do this ISCV reset you need Tune Boy or the other tune ecu. With tune boy its pretty easy as the step by step instructions apear on the screen. I do not think tune ecu is hard to use either only as you work thru the directions in their PDF manual it refers you to some stepps in the workshop manual. I wish I could be more help thank god tune boy makes it so easy.

Mine is a wee bit different when it comes to synchronizing the throttle bodies as I do not use the map sensor with the SuperCharger kit. I use the old school vacuum synchronizer guages to achieve the same results.
 
The real surprise!

It was a real surprise to me to find out what needed to be done to fix this problem on my 2007. I have had throttle/idle speed problems since the day I got the bike. It only had 500 miles on it then. My son and I have tinkered, read and done everything that has been suggested on the boards and we not only had all of the problems described here, but it kept on getting WORSE!

Surprise!!!

The fix for me is related to the idle stepper motor. The nyloc nut on the shaft of the motor (beautifully located between the engine block and the stepper motor) failed and the nut backed itself off the shaft.

A little loc-tite, a few choice words trying to get it all back together after screwing the nut back on the shaft and the bike runs PERFECTLY!

I now have a fantastic bike. Even better than when I got it!
 
I'd better keep an eye on that nylock nut on my Idle Air Control Motor...
Last August I was riding through Moab, Utah and had a 2500 RPM idle issue. I remembered reading something about that problem here on this site. Someone suggested turning the key off and restarting. This remedied the problem but kept me worrying of its return.

Months later I had erratic idle that progressed into a sputtering backfiring issue anywhere in the 1/4 throttle range. I used an ohm-meter to see that the resistances were jumping all over the place as I slowly accelerated the throttle. Since the jumping resistance values were all within range of the TPS (which is simply a variable resistor) the computer never recognizes a problem. It just assumes you're twisting the throttle fast enough to make a fiddler jealous. Changing this stupid $130 part that inexcusably died at 25,000 miles fixed the problem. ....for another 6 months.

Now I've got idle problems again and no Check Engine light to show that the ECU sees a problem. WTF? The bike won't idle unless I hold the throttle open, and won't start without twisting the grip just a little. If it were in intake leak there would be heavy deceleration popping in the exhaust. I used to ride an 04' Speedmaster. The rubber grommet plugs that close the vacuum test nozzles on the intake pipes dry rotted until the tubes were entirely open. I suppose the R3's use the same sort of components.

Tomorrow I'll spray some WD40 around the intake area. It's an old trick that proves an intake leak if the idle speed changes (the WD40 sucks into leak areas and increases RPM's). Too late to try it now. It's past midnight here...
 
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