Dealer Servicing? How Crucial?

Do you have a link for the tool?
 
vocaldog said:
Why the tool? Can't I just remove to fork caps and then use ratchet straps to compress the forks?
Click to expand...

Doesn't quite work like that as there's not a lot to get the ratchet straps onto, but I have used ratchet straps for this job.

I made a special tool for dismantling the forks that looks like the factory tool with arms out each side that were supposed to be handles but I made them too small. For ease of dismantling I put the fork in a vice on the brake bracket and attach the tool. If all's going well you can compress the spring by hand to loosen the nuts but it feels like you need three hands to get the tool in place. If its not going well I use the ratchet straps but you have to be very very careful as you must load both sides of the tool equally, bending the fork rod would be expensive. If I was going to do this regularly I'd make better handles on the compression tool.

Rebuilding the forks is a pretty easy job though.

Wish Id taken photos of the job

Oh one other thing loosen the top fork nuts while the forks are still clamped in the triple tree that makes things a lot easier.
 
I've already ordered the forks. Any idea where I can get the fork seals and the tools needed?
 
1K9 said:
How crucial is the fork oil change and fuel hoses @ 30k? The hoses are easy. The forks, hummm
Click to expand...

IMHO -
Well worth changing fork oil and springs at same time.
 
vocaldog said:
Why the tool? Can't I just remove to fork caps and then use rachet straps to compress the forks?
Click to expand...


I used ratchet straps looped around the brake mount at the bottom. The hooks are too big to fit into the holes in the tube so I got some small "s" hooks for hanging bird feeders, plants, ect & hooked those into the tube then the hooks of the straps onto them BUT you do need to be careful to hold the tube straight with your free hand as you ratchet down as sleeves said to not put a bind on the rod. As far as the little holder tool under the nut I used a shim that is used for front end alignments on cars/trucks. I used 7 weight oil vs the 5w factory recommended oil.
 
Idaho Red Rocket 3 said:
Follow the service manual. Use the amount off CC fluid not the MM level. The trick to doing the job is having the tool.
Click to expand...
I was under the impression that I should use the mm method instead of the cc method because the new progressive springs are a thicker coil than stock (more total volume) and therefore will displace more oil, leaving the level too high if I added the same number of cc's used with the stock springs. Thoughts anyone? I want to do this once, and do it right!
 
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