Coolant

[RockOn]

Removed the chrome intake cover so I could raise the tank to route some accessory wiring under the tank. The expansion tank is completely empty. My owner's handbook says the level should be between min and max and when adding coolant fill to the max level. It also says if you add water, distilled or not, you have to drain the coolant and refill with the proper coolant, sooner or later. They also say to check the coolant level before every ride!

Anyway, I have not removed the radiator cap to see if it is green coolant or something else in there. I've had the bike about 10-14 days, only ridden 150 miles, been too busy with other projects but did not feel any heat issues from the bike when I did ride it.......'08 Touring. Is an empty expansion tank cause for panic? Don't have any gauge lights indicating trouble....yet. Should I just get 50/50 coolant of any brand and fill to the max line or should I do something else?

PS Is there a way to add the fact I now have an '08 Touring in addition to my '06 Classic to my info column to the left?

 

[Kevin frazier]

Was it full when you bought it ? take the radiator cap off and it’s probably full if you dont have a light on. without knowing whats in it you’re probably gonna have to just add some same color 50/50 antifreeze. Since you just bought bike hard to say why expansion tank is empty, but take off radiator cap verify rad is full, and top off expansion tank and it should stay full. Hopefully it will. Can you check with seller on coolant used?

 

[GPMAZ]

You could just add some distilled water and wait for it to be sucked into the radiator. After it circulates, heats up, and starts to fill the expansion tank, you'll know what color the coolant is.

I ran a couple of bottles of Water Wetter and distilled water in a couple of bikes. Of course, no freezing temperatures where I live.

 

[RockOn]

Ok, I will loosen that screw on the radiator cap and take a peek to get the whole picture. Good idea about asking previous owner......he has been very open and up front about everything and if he knows what is in there and when last maintained and by who he will tell me.

 

[RockOn]

Found out coolant was changed by Triumph dealer 2 years ago when they did detent spring repair. I think that explains why the expansion tank is empty. Why? Surely a dealership does not follow all the factory specified steps to drain, bleed, purge, burp, test run, top off, etc....oh no, they add a minimum amount of coolant and call it a day and charge an hour or two labor for work they did not bother doing. At least that is my suspicion.

 

[RockOn]

Removed the tiny screw, could not turn the cap with my fingers, could not even get my fingers down in and around the cap.......had to gently use channel lock pliers, cap then turned but could not lift cap off radiator, must be something I am not seeing that prevents removal.....maybe needs more turning but it does not want to turn anymore.....I do see the metal safety tab(s) under the cap perimeter........then I noticed a growing green puddle of coolant on the floor next to my foot. Plenty of coolant bubbling out from under cap, strange there was none showing in the expansion tank considering the pressure that was pushing out the coolant......cold engine, hasn't run for 3 days, tightened the cap, replaced the itsy bitsy lock screw. Will shop for some green 50/50 coolant to put in the expansion tank and hope it mixes with the existing coolant. Have bike upright on lift per the book. Don't see any kinks in the hose to expansion tank. I will assume the pressure shoving out the coolant is positive evidence that the system is leak free and tight and was still pressurized as it should be from the last ride.......I hope that's what it means. I probably need to know more about the workings of the radiator cap, guessing there is a spring or diaphragm or something under the cap that allows flow back and forth between the radiator and expansion tank when the pressure reaches a certain level.....?

 

[Dean0]

Found out coolant was changed by Triumph dealer 2 years ago when they did detent spring repair. I think that explains why the expansion tank is empty. Why? Surely a dealership does not follow all the factory specified steps to drain, bleed, purge, burp, test run, top off, etc....oh no, they add a minimum amount of coolant and call it a day and charge an hour or two labor for work they did not bother doing. At least that is my suspicion.

That may well be the case, either way the coolant needs changing every two years, I would use a good radiator flush to be sure then replace with new coolant.
I find it easier to remove the top radiator shroud to access the cap easily and I drain the system by loosening the 3 pump bolts.
If your certain you only need to top up the expansion tank then do so using distilled/demineralised water and not just any green coolant, mixing with the wrong type can ruin your day... just my 2 cents worth.
Good luck

 

[oteczdmitriy]

The radiator cap must be replaced with a new one.

 

[Gregger]

Removed the tiny screw, could not turn the cap with my fingers, could not even get my fingers down in and around the cap.......had to gently use channel lock pliers, cap then turned but could not lift cap off radiator, must be something I am not seeing that prevents removal.....maybe needs more turning but it does not want to turn anymore.....I do see the metal safety tab(s) under the cap perimeter........then I noticed a growing green puddle of coolant on the floor next to my foot. Plenty of coolant bubbling out from under cap, strange there was none showing in the expansion tank considering the pressure that was pushing out the coolant......cold engine, hasn't run for 3 days, tightened the cap, replaced the itsy bitsy lock screw. Will shop for some green 50/50 coolant to put in the expansion tank and hope it mixes with the existing coolant. Have bike upright on lift per the book. Don't see any kinks in the hose to expansion tank. I will assume the pressure shoving out the coolant is positive evidence that the system is leak free and tight and was still pressurized as it should be from the last ride.......I hope that's what it means. I probably need to know more about the workings of the radiator cap, guessing there is a spring or diaphragm or something under the cap that allows flow back and forth between the radiator and expansion tank when the pressure reaches a certain level.....?

Some things to be aware of before proceeding;

1. When removing a rad cap you need to push down on the cap as you twist counter clockwise to clear the lock tab that holds the cap in place. This will usually bring you to another tab or step allowing for pressure release without blasting potentially hot pressurized anti freeze all over you . Repeat to get you to the full release position. Sometimes the rad cap rubber will cause some frustration by stick to the rad neck making removal difficult.

2. Triumph recommends an HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) antifreeze. Do not mix any other type (IAT, OAT, POAT, etc) because it can cause all kinds of problems including gelling and increased corrosion. Also, the colour doesn't guarantee compatibility. The HOAT from the factory is coloured green though, so if the dealer used Triumph certified coolant, then make sure you do too. If you must use a different type, flush the system completely or at least use one that is fully compatible with all makes and types... kind of a compromise... they are available but you need to do a Google search (Prestone is one I noticed). For me, I have used the Zerex G-05 HOAT compliant coolant (yellow in colour) with no issues.

 

[RockOn]

Some things to be aware of before proceeding;

1. When removing a rad cap you need to push down on the cap as you twist counter clockwise to clear the lock tab that holds the cap in place. This will usually bring you to another tab or step allowing for pressure release without blasting potentially hot pressurized anti freeze all over you . Repeat to get you to the full release position. Sometimes the rad cap rubber will cause some frustration by stick to the rad neck making removal difficult.

2. Triumph recommends an HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) antifreeze. Do not mix any other type (IAT, OAT, POAT, etc) because it can cause all kinds of problems including gelling and increased corrosion. Also, the colour doesn't guarantee compatibility. The HOAT from the factory is coloured green though, so if the dealer used Triumph certified coolant, then make sure you do too. If you must use a different type, flush the system completely or at least use one that is fully compatible with all makes and types... kind of a compromise... they are available but you need to do a Google search (Prestone is one I noticed). For me, I have used the Zerex G-05 HOAT compliant coolant (yellow in colour) with no issues.

Hey, I think you are onto something there about the cap. I probably did not press down hard enough and turn more to clear the lock tabs. Good to know there are coolants compatible with other types, very good info. Thanks.