Coil Over Plug mod (COP) for standard coil removal

[DEcosse]

Shouldn't be necessary to buy the Yamaha Harnesses - better and probably cheaper to just use new connectors

2-Way Kit

Schematic

Although schematically it shows wires pairing/branching mid-length, it is probably possible (& neater) to both both paired wires into a single terminal at the Interface Connector - unsealed connectors are easier to do this with, although only small gauge (i.e. 20) wires are required so even sealed connector should not be major issue. I just prefer to not have to use splices personally but YMMV

p.s. all 6 positive could be common together to (any) single brown/pink, but since there are three available makes neater if just matching two to one. Again, YMMV, no right or wrong, just personal preference

Also should have mentioned - the Tach and McCruise do not have to come off coil 1 drive - any of them is going to give same result; so no need to stack all connections onto a single wire on that side of things. (I picked 2 & 3 in the schematic, but that was not consciously avoiding 1)

 

[Joesmoe]

And per @DEcosse , here is a proper kit:

And need six of the coils:

Ignition Stick Coil For Yamaha FZ 1 YZF R1 R6 R6S VMAX V Max 1700 2002-2017 (~$200)

 

[warp9.9]

And per @DEcosse , here is a proper kit:

And need six of the coils:

Ignition Stick Coil For Yamaha FZ 1 YZF R1 R6 R6S VMAX V Max 1700 2002-2017 (~$200)

Nice, some day if my coils go bad I might consider it. Since is does create any more power. And only provides more room under the tank which I'm not sure when the last time I lifted the tank to work under it. Its not a real priority on my list. Kind of like I need a horn that sounds like a truck so the other cagers out there can not pay attention to bikes while they are looking for the truck thats honking at them.

 

[Tripps]

Changed my coils yesterday, seems to have finally fixed my cutting out when hot problem, I'll find out for sure when I get to Florida. If so, I think it establishes that a Touring, at least one running a PC/AT module tach, gets the tach reading from a coil, not the CPS as a couple of people suggested.

 

[DEcosse]

Resistance of stock coil is 1.9 ohms. R1 sticks are 1.7 ohms.

Sound ok?

I would not go any less than 1.7. Have used later coils in the past. They look and fit very similar but have a slightly different part number. Not sure of the ohms without getting one and measuring it now.

Curious, I looked in the manual, it lists 0.56 kohms for the pick up coil and 1.4-1.8 ohms as the acceptable range for the primary resistance on page 11.70.

Not arguing nev, if you say stick with 1.7, then I’ll do so when I search, I’ve learned to trust your first hand experience.

Recognize that you are now running TWO stick coils in parallel - so the net impedance of those two R1 sticks is going to be 0.85 ohms.

Oops! Sorry - @Claviger covered this already

​

Stock coils:
1.8 ohms Primary
31k ohms secondary

R1 Coils:
1.4 ohms Primary
9.4k ohms secondary

I think because of this, I'm going to rewire the setup from being parallel to series coils per cylinder. This will raise the resistance to 2.8 ohms, however, going the other way and wiring them in parallel, will yield only .7 ohms primary resistance, something I feel is potentially dangerous to the ECU.

Amps = Voltage / Resistance
6.888 = 12.4 / 1.8 - Stock
17.714 = 12.4 / 0.7 - Parallel R1
4.428 = 12.4 / 2.8 - Series R1

- did you try this with them in series?
I'm not sure how that would work to be honest - you're effectively only charging each coil primary up to 6V when you do that so the commensurate HT spark voltage would also be halved

 

[Joesmoe]

Update: The resistance of the coil sticks MATTERS !

I purchased new items from eBay that claimed cover multiple years - this data may change -- we know 2002 spec items work -- we know shortly thereafter they don't work -- and we have heard not yet confirmed, later years still are back to compatible.

The items I purchased I blindly installed in the back, and no run.

Testing the sticks they showed 0.7 Ohm resistance, meaning they draw too much current, and the bike was shutting down.

The sticks that work need to read double that, or 1.4 Ohm (I measured the OEM coils at 2.9 Ohm). Of course, there are six sticks, and three OEM coils, so things going on here I don't understand.

I just know 0.7 doesn't cut it, and I've noticed nowhere on eBay do the sellers offer that information -- they just say "came off a running bike" or similar, which is not much to go on.

Big shoutout to @DEcosse and @Claviger for help this neophyte through this process.

More to follow.

 

[DEcosse]

... Testing the sticks they showed 0.7 Ohm resistance... (I measured the OEM coils at 2.9 Ohm). ...

Just to point out that your meter is 'measuring' a resistance for the OEM coils that is higher value than others have reported - that probably means that even your 0.7 ohms measured on same meter, is likely ALSO higher than the actual value - so those you purchased may (probably!) be even lower than the 0.7 indicated on your meter
Measuring resistance at those levels is not trivial without a tool specifically designed to read in that range - but, forgetting the absolute value for a moment, you would expect at least either a straight offset or a linear mis-calibration (or both even) and either of those (given the OEM coils already read a higher value) probably indicate the 0.7 is also higher than they likely are. It would be extremely unlikely for your meter to measure HIGH at 1.8 ohms actual (reading 2.9) and then LOW (or even accurate) at 0.7 ohms i.e. the 0.7 is most likely ALSO HIGH - so is almost certainly even less than the 0.7 you are seeing.

 

[Joesmoe]

A (wo)man is only as good as their tools.

Have a recommended affordable multimeter that would be more trustworthy ?

 

[DEcosse]

I purchased new items from eBay that claimed cover multiple years - this data may change -- we know 2002 spec items work -- we know shortly thereafter they don't work -- and we have heard not yet confirmed, later years still are back to compatible.

I also think this is less a question of the model year, but fact they are after-market and so don't have the same EXACT specs as OEM - they may well still work in a Yamaha, which clearly has a different ECU and coil driver circuits than the Rocket, exacerbated by the fact that these are being used in parallel on the R3.

Incidentally the Yamaha OEM part number for 2002 model (5PW-82310-00-00) is only used on 2002/2003 models - I have no idea what changes for models beyond that, only that they are different

 

[DEcosse]

Have a recommended affordable multimeter that would be more trustworthy ?

Hard to go wrong with a Fluke - but again recognize that most are broad spectrum devices and specifically at the 1 ohm kind of level I would still question its absolute accuracy (but at least more likely to be linear)

Mine is a Fluke 87 V

For what it's worth If I loop one lead between the terminals I get 0.1 ohms reading; with both leads/probes touching I get 0.2 ohms - which already says I'm getting 0.1 ohm from each lead. (you following the issue with trying to measure such a small resistance?)
And measuring my Daytona Coil reads 1.2 ohms - less the leads resistance means they are really at ~ 1 ohm (measured)
Service manual gives resistance range of 0.8 to 1.2 so suggests that is pretty close to accurate

But honestly, a $25 meter is going to be just fine for 95% of most tasks and spending couple of hundred dollars to improve accuracy I would say, for most, is just not worth the investment.