Coil Over Plug mod (COP) for standard coil removal

Grmblz said:

Good work, hope it all goes well and you get the same improvement as I did.
If you can get it there's a type of heat shrink that has some sort of heat activated goopy lining, and when you shrink it, it oozes out and completely seals the joint, I couldn't get it here so ended up using ordinary heat shrink and the tape. The connectors for the coils are typical japanese brilliance, silicon "o" rings that seal perfectly, and No more bloody carbon core HT leads, what were they thinking, they couldn't even go with copper core???
Quick tip, when you pull the spade connectors off the coils make a note of the colours, number 1 is obvious but 2 and 3 can get mixed up, and please let us know how it all goes.

Click to expand...

Grmblz said:

Good work, hope it all goes well and you get the same improvement as I did.
If you can get it there's a type of heat shrink that has some sort of heat activated goopy lining, and when you shrink it, it oozes out and completely seals the joint, I couldn't get it here so ended up using ordinary heat shrink and the tape. The connectors for the coils are typical japanese brilliance, silicon "o" rings that seal perfectly, and No more bloody carbon core HT leads, what were they thinking, they couldn't even go with copper core???
Quick tip, when you pull the spade connectors off the coils make a note of the colours, number 1 is obvious but 2 and 3 can get mixed up, and please let us know how it all goes.

Click to expand...

TURBO200R4 said:

I BET IT RUNS FUNNY IF YOU GET 2 AND 3 SWAPPED SORrry caps

Click to expand...

Kevin frazier said:

1 2 3 240 / t plane 1 3 2 180 270 270

Click to expand...

Fozzie said:

So my coils are here, I also got a loom just to match colours up. Daft question but on coils does it matter which pin is the hot and which is trigger?

Click to expand...

Grmblz said:

Woohoo, very excitement.
Short answer, no not really.
Long answer: Coil Polarity
So after melting my brain it appeared the difference was whether the spark traveled from the central electrode to the little arm (earth) or the other way round, from the arm to the central electrode.
After much head scratching I decided that for a touring the difference was probably irrelevant, however I was careful to wire them all up with the same polarity.
From memory I put the live to the left hand pin (when viewed from the top) Easy to determine which of the two original wires is the live, just get a voltmeter and turn on the ignition, one of the two wires feeding the old coil will show 12v, the other shows nothing.
Probably not the definitive answer you were looking for, but I hope it helps, and it works a treat.

Click to expand...

Fozzie said:

Brilliant mate, I actually thought as long as each coil had same live to same pin it would be good, just like you said, so every left pin live, every right pin trigger if im right

Click to expand...

Grmblz said:

****, on the spot now yes from memory, but as explained it doesn't make a whole lot of difference, I think it more important to have them all on the same page, if there is a 10% difference in spark intensity or whatever as long as they are all the same page it's ok, what you don't want of course is different cylinders having different firing characteristics or heaven forbid two plugs in the same cylinder behaving differently, no matter how small that difference is. So left or right pin for the active (constant 12v) is fine as long as they are all the same. Hope that's clear enough? I'm in Oz and getting late here, but will be around for the next 30min's or so, any more help I can give just holler.

Click to expand...