Clutch slip

[Stefan67]

Guys I need to pick your brains, ive got a r3r, 2588 ks on the clock..my issue is im getting the clutch slipping badly...but....only when the bike warms up, cold it's no issue but at the moment I'm on the side of the rd waiting for it and me to cool down. I've installed penners unrestricted tune so have voided any warranty. I'd just put a heavy duty clutch in but there's nothing avail yet. I will advise never done a burnout or put it on the back wheel ever....I ride fast but definitely don't abuse it. HELPPPPP me please ),;

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Do they already know about the remap?
If not, can you go back to stock map, and drop the bike into dealer for warranty

 

[Stefan67]

Do they already know about the remap?
If not, can you go back to stock map, and drop the bike into dealer for warranty

Clutch isn't covered anyway, it's classed as a consumable item...have you turboed yours? You don't have any clutch issues obviously?

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Clutch isn't covered anyway, it's classed as a consumable item...have you turboed yours? You don't have any clutch issues obviously?

If I had a 2021 bike and the clutch was gone (or at least adjusted incorrectly.. could be that), I'd be hopping up and down in the dealer.

I had my 2010 carpentered and supercharged, but with a hydraulic clutch and MTC basket and fibers.
The clutch had no slip issues, but the rear tyre did.

Then I stroked a stock engine, now that clutch got roasted once I went over 50% throttle and 2000rpm.. so had to fit stronger clutch springs to cope with the stroker torque.

 

[Zutt]

I would go back to stock config, and take it to dealer, or see if it's not slipping anymore, stay on stock. God knows it has more than enough power as stock.

 

[EskimoPie]

For what it's worth, I have Penner's tune on my GT and when I took the bike in for the quickshifter install, when they handed be back the records printout (that you get from dealer visits), it still had a checkmark next to the ECU locked line (I forget the exact text on that line). I imagine they can still tell its tuned if they go digging with the dealer tool, but at least on the surface I didn't get any notice or flack from them that I'd reprogrammed my bike and the paperwork still seemed to indicate everything was normal.

 

[Tripps]

I would go back to stock config, and take it to dealer, or see if it's not slipping anymore, stay on stock. God knows it has more than enough power as stock.

That's crazy talk, never enough, right, @Kevin frazier ?

 

[Wdugan9080]

Guys I need to pick your brains, ive got a r3r, 2588 ks on the clock..my issue is im getting the clutch slipping badly...but....only when the bike warms up, cold it's no issue but at the moment I'm on the side of the rd waiting for it and me to cool down. I've installed penners unrestricted tune so have voided any warranty. I'd just put a heavy duty clutch in but there's nothing avail yet. I will advise never done a burnout or put it on the back wheel ever....I ride fast but definitely don't abuse it. HELPPPPP me please ),;

Did you recently change the oil and put regular synthetic oil in it??? If it's not 4T see attached. It will ruin the clutch plate material and you will have to change the clutch and oil. Hope not, but if you change the clutch put stiffer springs in it, a little harder to pull but less chance of slipping. GL but I would definitely take it back to the dealership, the worst they can do is say no it's been modified and charge you a shop fee, tell them you want an estimate before they do the work, I think they always ask you if you want them to do anything, I know I had my tires replaced $900 they were off by $200, they were supposed to charge $150 for the installation on a verbal quote and charged $350 and in the middle asked me if I wanted the brakes done for $350, they were shot, I did them myself for $30 aftermarket pads from eBay, not the greatest pads but if I don't like them I'll get better one's, I already have the front on, they were past the wear out warning, back's not as bad, doing this weekend, but the fronts work great, I even changed the fluid, very easy!!! The clutch you can do but a lot more work, have to take off the radiator and they recommend the front wheel, and make sure you torque them even and right, the bolts are made to break under too much pressure. But definitely go with plan A first!!!

 

[Tripps]

Did you recently change the oil and put regular synthetic oil in it??? If it's not 4T see attached. It will ruin the clutch plate material and you will have to change the clutch and oil. Hope not, but if you change the clutch put stiffer springs in it, a little harder to pull but less chance of slipping. GL but I would definitely take it back to the dealership, the worst they can do is say no it's been modified and charge you a shop fee, tell them you want an estimate before they do the work, I think they always ask you if you want them to do anything, I know I had my tires replaced $900 they were off by $200, they were supposed to charge $150 for the installation on a verbal quote and charged $350 and in the middle asked me if I wanted the brakes done for $350, they were shot, I did them myself for $30 aftermarket pads from eBay, not the greatest pads but if I don't like them I'll get better one's, I already have the front on, they were past the wear out warning, back's not as bad, doing this weekend, but the fronts work great, I even changed the fluid, very easy!!! The clutch you can do but a lot more work, have to take off the radiator and they recommend the front wheel, and make sure you torque them even and right, the bolts are made to break under too much pressure. But definitely go with plan A first!!!

EBC HH pads seem to be the consensus

 

[sonnie]

EBC HH pads seem to be the consensus

Because the clutch grabs when cool, it could very well be the oil.. Unless u used specific bike oil that has no friction modifiers in it, when hot it will slip when the modifiers
release from the heat.. Using 20w-50 also helps with clutch issues as the oil stays just a little thicker when hot, just make sure its bike specific. My neighbor used Mobil One
extended life synthetic in his T-120.. The clutch did the same thing as yours.. He changed it out with Mobil One 20-50 motorcycle oil, and the clutch came back in just a few miles.