charging system fault

...mechanic said that failed R/R leads to ignition system remaining energised even with key off.

Sorry, but that part is complete nonsense - I'd love to have him show me on the schematic how that 'magic' is possible
I know you're just repeating what you were told ....

However, pleased your system problem is apparently resolved
 
I'm having issues finding the SH847aa...though at $550+ for the OEM I'm happy to keep looking for the Shindengen!

My next stop is a Suzuki dealer
 
Replacement was a Shindengen FH020.
My bike has no accessories to draw power - mechanic said that failed R/R leads to ignition system remaining energised even with key off. Apparently common fault with Harley's too. I'm no mechanic but replacing the R/R (and nothing else) did resolve the problem.
Repair cost $349


I've seen those R/R's on ebay for under $40 + delivery....did you get a full receipt with part numbers from the mech who fiixed it for you?

The genuine Shindengen range starts around $180 here in the wild wild west
 
I've seen those R/R's on ebay for under $40 + delivery ....

Those are not genuine - see my post #7 in this thread

This is the real thing - note the arrangement of the round pillars .....

FH012



FH020




Ripoff #1

No round pillars ......



Ripoff #2

Getting a little more 'clever' - they added the 'pillars' to the heatsink, but note how they are aligned
 
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Those are not genuine - see my post #7 in this thread

This is the real thing - note the arrangement of the round pillars .....

FH012



FH020




Ripoff #1

No round pillars ......



Ripoff #2

Getting a little more 'clever' - they added the 'pillars' to the heatsink, but note how they are aligned


Indeed...it was a couple of your earlier posts on other threads that prompted my research. I like to believe that even dealerships wouldn't over-charge by a magnitude of 10x actual cost
 
Ok folks I have a non-charging battery problem.

12.6v across the battery 3 days since bike was last started....so it seems to be holding charge.

While cranking volts dropped to 9 - 10 then steady at 12.3 at idle.

Holding 2000rpm it took about a minute for voltage to rise to 12.9

Had to stop as Mrs Hunt decided it was too hot leaning over the exhaust holding the multimeter probes.

Have removed R/R and completed tests as per the manual and it checks out ok.

From grey connector to engine earth on any of the 3 pins i get open circuit (as opposed to a zero ohm read) and assume this is how it should be??

So my first qu is do i have a failing stator, failing R/R that I've misdiagnosed, or something else entirely?

The bike will run for a few days before the battery is too weak to start it. A few hours trickle charge and she's good to go few more days.

Check this guy out!

Home
 
Indeed...it was a couple of your earlier posts on other threads that prompted my research. I like to believe that even dealerships wouldn't over-charge by a magnitude of 10x actual cost
Ah I misunderstood your intent
Yes, I would certainly be checking to be sure that is a genuine one, but even then the $349 total is stiff for something that should not even take an hour to diagnose & replace.

Re that seller - Why would you pay $207 USD for a 'kit', most of which is redundant as it already plugs into the OEM wiring?
Partzilla even has this on EBay for $168 (and offers international shipping - although it's a stiff $54 by Priority Mail) -https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-32800-31J00-RECTIFIER-ASSY-/273474042312
Oddly enough the price directly on their website is $165.04
 
Wasn't he the owner of the Gem Saloon in Deadwood? :roll: :thumbsup:

@1olbull Nice one! :roll:
Bit subtle for most unless they are familiar with the show.

Watched the new movie version at the weekend - all the original characters (except Powers Boothe, who died) - good storyline and as good as ever was.
Try to check it out if you were fan of the show.
 
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