Changing brake fluid on ABS bike?

[1olbull]

@mully95
That wobble is likely from front tire cupping - especially with the Metzelers.
That said, the gooseneck bearings are not difficult to check & tighten.
I know mine were loose after 20K miles.
A large amount of gear packed onto the rear can alter geometry enough to induce that hands off bar wobble.
Just sayin' . . .

 

[rainman]

mully the way i have changed my brke fluid is i use a small turkey baster and pull the fluid out then put new fluid in and open the bleeder valve until the new fluid starts to run out make sure ur master cylinder dont run out this way u dont have to bleed them i have done this on my rocket when i changed brake flud and have also done it on my victory which has abs and have had no problem

 

[mully95]

@mully95
That wobble is likely from front tire cupping - especially with the Metzelers.
That said, the gooseneck bearings are not difficult to check & tighten.
I know mine were loose after 20K miles.
A large amount of gear packed onto the rear can alter geometry enough to induce that hands off bar wobble.
Just sayin' . . .

Hmmmmmm I have a brand new Avon Cobra on front and noticed it today as I was riding with friends. This is the first time I've rode my bike for more that 100 miles with the Avon. I did have a worn out Metz with cupped portions on the tire but never noticed what I noticed today at 40 mph. However with the Metz it would do it around 100 mph. Can't win for losing I guess!!!!

I have Triumph bags on the rear with a small cooler with ice and drinks, a leather jacket, and other not so heavy junk. Bridgestone exedra with 444 Progressive shocks with preload set on the firm side.

 

[mully95]

mully the way i have changed my brke fluid is i use a small turkey baster and pull the fluid out then put new fluid in and open the bleeder valve until the new fluid starts to run out make sure ur master cylinder dont run out this way u dont have to bleed them i have done this on my rocket when i changed brake flud and have also done it on my victory which has abs and have had no problem

Well I did some reading and found that the solenoids need to be activated in order to remove ALL the brake fluid. I'm not saying your way is wrong or anything. I would have went about it in the same fashion as you but got to reading up on it. I'll send you the links that I read.

 

[1olbull]

@mully95
Looks to me like if you are LUCKY and no air creeps in, you MAY get no ABS faults.
I just ordered me one of those "Dealer Tolls" and it was just under a hunsky.
Looks like it does other neat stuff as well.
Seems I have MUCH MORE to try and learn . . .
Thanks Mully for all your help!

 

[mully95]

@mully95
Looks to me like if you are LUCKY and no air creeps in, you MAY get no ABS faults.
I just ordered me one of those "Dealer Tolls" and it was just under a hunsky.
Looks like it does other neat stuff as well.
Seems I have MUCH MORE to try and learn . . .
Thanks Mully for all your help!

I'm no expert on ABS .... just going by what I've read about it.... but you're welcome.
I don't believe it will be to much longer before TuneECU will have the ABS bleed portion added because the fellow that developed TuneECU had replied to the thread about bleeding ABS. I bet it is on his "things to do" list.
Oh and I will be tighten up that headstock bearings pretty soon... wish me luck. lol

 

[mully95]

Just a side note. I ordered a one man bleeding kit from Summit racing to use when I get to that point of bleeding the brakes. I'm not sure how it works completely yet but if anything the way its made it shouldnt be a messy job.

 

[Gregger]

Just don't get any brake fluid on your paint......will ruin it!

 

[mully95]

Just don't get any brake fluid on your paint......will ruin it!

Yeah you're right! Thanks for the warning!

 

[mully95]

Got the brake system flushed and added new fluid. Use the DealerTool to activate the ABS solenoids. This was a odd feeling because the ABS had control of the pressure on each bleed. The brake pedal and brake lever would lose pressure when the solenoids was activated. Then pressure back up.... strange to say the least. The rear brake fluid was dirty compared to the front. It was hard to tell when the new fluid was being bleed so I bleed it more than usual to get it all out.
Changed the coolant out to... that wasn't that difficult. Used distilled water and regular all purpose antifreeze.
Also adjusted the headstock bearings. This took away the wobble I would get at 40 mph with my hands off the handlebars. I could feel it when I had my hands on the bars is why it got my attention. I seemed to have a bunch of free play but doing the adjustment firmed it up.