Cam Cover Gasket (again)

I find all to common among mechanics the last twenty years: I don't think they consciously think this - sort of like trying to find a place to pee away from home -- you just sense here and now is o.k. -- and the mechanics have a sense if they believe no one will see the spot where the work is done, they have license to do it "economically" -- When I got my ST1300 home from the dealership (had purchased it three states over -- they weren't going to see me again), the Tupperware almost fell off the bike when I went poking around -- when I was done -- fully half of the push-pin clips were missing.
 
Your mechanics and dealers well fill you with a warm and fuzzy. Make you fell special. Make you feel important. Hell i have done that with some of the best whores in Europe at a price. (USN)
 
i would ask him for a new gasket and do the job yourself, it is an easy job to do just take your time and make sure everything is nice and clean and use a TORQUE wrench, if you do a search I had a write up(edited by Paul) on the same job a few years back, quite honestly after the eff up they made they would not be touching my bike again
 
@scot in exile Since you mention it, I went back and looked, and I have a question:

The thread: Cam Cover Gasket

While you properly emphasize the use of a good torque wrench, with frequent checks for settings, what I don't see mentioned is how to deal with the offset of the engine, by which some of the bolts are readily accessible while others aren't -- and using different extensions and such, particularly at an angle, can affect the real torque achieved at the bolt head vs. the wrench reading.

Presumably, whatever is used for the least accessible bolt, should be used on all of them to obtain comparable results.

I also note several folks have adopted a 10 Nm torque value vs. the manual stated 12 Nm. Given my experience I agree with that, noting that the bolts all seem to bottom out out by 10 -- and I question what is achieved with the extra push.
 
sonny said:
Your mechanics and dealers well fill you with a warm and fuzzy. Make you fell special. Make you feel important. Hell i have done that with some of the best whores in Europe at a price.
Click to expand...
Yeah but it's not so great when you find you've inherited a good heavy dose of the C.L.A.P. afterwards.

Really moderators we can't clap our hands either without sanction. This is censorship of basic ENGLISH - it's a language.
 
Joesmoe said:
I also note several folks have adopted a 10 Nm torque value vs. the manual stated 12 Nm. Given my experience I agree with that, noting that the bolts all seem to bottom out out by 10 -- and I question what is achieved with the extra push.
Click to expand...


My manual says progessively tighten to 10nm
 
barbagris said:
Yeah but it's not so great when you find you've inherited a good heavy dose of the C.L.A.P. afterwards.

Really moderators we can't **** our hands either without sanction. This is censorship of basic ENGLISH - it's a language.
Click to expand...
A truly vile one too, obviously, or is that all just ˈklæpˌtɹæp too?

Maybe we need to use 'klæp' instead?

Pronunciation[edit]
 
Last edited:
Joesmoe said:
Perhaps that is a manual you wrote yourself ?

The manual at @idk 's signature on page 3.6 agrees with my manual, both of which say "tighten progressively to 12 Nm " [their emphasis]
Click to expand...

I wasn't trying to "correct" you, this is my version of the manual;



I have noticed quite a few discrepancies between versions of the manual, the worst of which is the main journal and crankpin/big end journal bearing clearance specs and colours.

They're quite different, and to make it worse, their parts list has more colours than either manual specifies.

I phoned Triumph factory and their guidance was stick to the manual I have.
They couldn't give me clearance spec for the blue journal shells I bought off them....
 
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