Cam Chain tensioner adjust

TURBO200R4 said:
whether it is wore out or not depends on the way it has bend driven.
i think need to put spacer in and see if that helps
i think that the big question is what is the noise.
of coarse it would b nice to get another good opinion from an expert @warp9.9
Click to expand...
Bike was with the dealer last year for the same rattle . Noise got worse then after a trip of 2000km in 4 days . Dealer checked the the valve train according to them everything was normal up there and they changed the tensioner then with reason that they found mark on the tensioner teeth and tensioner might be jumping teeth.
Sound issue was fixed afyer that but only 2000km more and rattle is back.
Bike rattles only during cold start and becomes normal when warm up or in 15 to 30 sec.
No hard riding with bike serviced regularly.
 


the noise that u r hearing is the valves clacking/clicking because they r a little too loose. but if it goes away when warm then that is a good thing
bought my with 6000 miles on it and the valves were clicking i now have 50,000 miles on it and never checked the valve clearance.
if u measured the the tensioner after they worked on it and it was 20mm then put in the spacer and ride without worry
 
Getting ready to tear down for my 200 HP kit. Have an up-date kit and intend to use some of the parts during this tear down. Did you ever find out how long a new cam chain is ? Has there been a consensus of opinions about the revised less plates cam chains. Can the older 9 link cam chains be sourced ?
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
As long as the drop is more than the tool I.e. 16mm then the spacer is needed. As per manual.

Fyi a bottomed out tensioner has a 26mm drop.



Yeah i measured that on my old tensioner as well
Click to expand...
Thanks for confirming . I have checked again the plunger drop this morning its 20.8mm . Will be adding spacer and see if that make difference to rattle.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

I'm not much help I'm afraid, have not measured a new chain, don't know why they changed chain. The only instance of a chain breaking I've heard of was claviger's, iirc that was the newer version.
If your own chain is the older version and is in spec length wise, why not reuse it.
What parts does the update kit contain?
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
As long as the drop is more than the tool I.e. 16mm then the spacer is needed. As per manual.

Fyi a bottomed out tensioner has a 26mm drop.



Click to expand...
Now something strange happened. I tried to put spacer in and
R-III-R Turbo said:
As long as the drop is more than the tool I.e. 16mm then the spacer is needed. As per manual.

Fyi a bottomed out tensioner has a 26mm drop.



Click to expand...
Now something strage happened . I tried to put spacer in tensioner but wasnnot able to put the centre nut back bec spring was getting compressed fully and nut was not reaching the threads.
So took out my spacer and with it came Nother spacer. There was another spacer in there already now i got 2 spacers. Without the spacer there is very negligible tension in the spring. Spoke to rep about this over the phone how come someone put spacer in the new tensioner at dealer and not inform anyone. He had excuses it could have from the factory to get the tolerence right and s...t.
With only 8000km on clock and already a spacer 8n there from somewhere. What does this suggest. Getting confused. May be time for new chain and guides and sprokets.
 
The dealer probably thought the noise
Was the chain and installed the spacer
If u r worried about the noise u can pay a good mechanic to tighten up the loose valves or (what i would do)
ride the **** out of it and not worry.
 
so to continue this thread, I recently replaced my valve cover gasket and adjusted 5 valves on the intake. I used the triumph tool to set the cams with the crank shaft. note that my crankshaft wasn't marked, @sonnie thought the gear was on backwards. I used a rod in the front cylinder to determine tdc. I assembled the cam chain tensioner and center nut. I noted that the tensioner seemed to be fully extended, upon removal. Once inserted the cam chain seemed quite tight between the cam shafts.
Now to my point in regards to the cam chain tensioner. I've noticed a snicking sound coming from the engine, it's more apparent when under load in fifth gear.
I should mention that is a 2016 roadster with 17 thousand miles, and I ride 2 up all the time.

So I'm wondering if my tensioner is just barely getting by due to wear.

I've reviewed this thread and I see I can insert a slug within the spring, 10mm dia. and .375 in or so to help tension things.

I believe I can remove the center nut and measure the depth, and if it's more than 16mm I am ok to add the slug.

Am I on the right track here? I don't hear a paint can rattle, but I wear ear plugs.

The engine didn't do this initially after the engine work, gotten worse today. At one point I did feel like something slipped in the engine or tranny. Could I have jumped a tooth and now the timing is off and the engine is pinging?

Thanks for your help,
Hoopla
 
well i don't think that it jumped a tooth
true if more than 16mm then add the spacer
i think that if u have more than 25 then u may have troubles.
i do not know what a snicking sound is?
 
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