Brute exhaust installation

[alpental]

Hey guys, hoping for a little advice here. I'm installing a used Carpenter Racing Brute exhaust, and have a few questions:

1. I noticed some high-temp silicone sealant around the copper exhaust header crush rings. Is new silicone sealant required for this install, or can I just use new crush rings?
2. The exhaust header bolt anchor nuts aren't deep enough. Any problem using SS nuts and then the acorn nut at the end?
3. Any problem using high-temp grease between the exhaust collector and three pipes? It would greatly help positioning.
4. When getting rid of the O2 sensor, do I remove it all the way up to the ECU? Just cut the wires? Zip tie it to the frame and leave it there?
5. The used exhaust springs I received are a little stretched. Looks like 3 are smaller 3-3/16" and 3 are larger 3-5/8" from inside of hook to inside of hook. Any recommendations for good black replacement springs and lengths?

Thanks for the guidance...

 

[1olbull]

Abe,
Can't help you with any Brute header dope, but congrats on getting it and I know you will love the performance difference over stock or TORs.
Have you different intake as well? Get it properly tuned as well.
If not using PCV with AT, I would consider removing the O2 completely and installing a plug.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Hey guys, hoping for a little advice here. I'm installing a used Carpenter Racing Brute exhaust, and have a few questions:

1. I noticed some high-temp silicone sealant around the copper exhaust header crush rings. Is new silicone sealant required for this install, or can I just use new crush rings?
2. The exhaust header bolt anchor nuts aren't deep enough. Any problem using SS nuts and then the acorn nut at the end?
3. Any problem using high-temp grease between the exhaust collector and three pipes? It would greatly help positioning.
4. When getting rid of the O2 sensor, do I remove it all the way up to the ECU? Just cut the wires? Zip tie it to the frame and leave it there?
5. The used exhaust springs I received are a little stretched. Looks like 3 are smaller 3-3/16" and 3 are larger 3-5/8" from inside of hook to inside of hook. Any recommendations for good black replacement springs and lengths?

Thanks for the guidance...

You can use the nuts you mentioned do not use grease on the pipes and dont cut the wires call carpenter for new springs you can use sealant on the exhaust crush rings

 

[alpental]

Abe,
Can't help you with any Brute header dope, but congrats on getting it and I know you will love the performance difference over stock or TORs.
Have you different intake as well? Get it properly tuned as well.
If not using PCV with AT, I would consider removing the O2 completely and installing a plug.

Thanks, I bought it used, cleaned it up, and had the whole thing thermocoated black at a local shop. Already got Ramair v.2 installed. O2 is already plugged, and I'll trace the O2 sensor wires up and remove that cleanly. @HansO kindly sent me a tune for the whole thing once the exhaust is installed.

You can use the nuts you mentioned do not use grease on the pipes and dont cut the wires call carpenter for new springs you can use sealant on the exhaust crush rings

Thanks for the advice. I've tried calling Carpenter a few times for new springs, but haven't had anyone return my voicemails. I'll keep trying...
EDIT: Just spoke to someone at Carpenter who said he'd send the replacement springs out free of charge. Nice guy!

 

[1olbull]

Abe,
@HansO is the most helpful bloke around!
He was invaluable to me when I first got my 2012 Roadster.
I would still recommend an actual dyno-tune when you can find one.
Better yet ride up here, visit your family and friends and I'll take you to see Nels for a proper Tune ECU dyno!

 

[Claviger]

Just so you know, the silicone on the gaskets is only used to hold them in place during assembly at the factory. They use WAY too much at Hinkley, just a little dab will hold the gaskets in place, or you can forgo it all together.

You don't need acorn nuts, just use some normal locking nuts, I put black Ti nuts on mine, no backing off, works great.

High temp non hardening sealant is always a good idea on any slip joint, a little goes far.

There is no reason to not reinstall the o2 sensor. If you really don't want to, just unplug and disable in TuneECU, don't leave it hanging there lol.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Just so you know, the silicone on the gaskets is only used to hold them in place during assembly at the factory. They use WAY too much at Hinkley, just a little dab will hold the gaskets in place, or you can forgo it all together.

You don't need acorn nuts, just use some normal locking nuts, I put black Ti nuts on mine, no backing off, works great.

High temp non hardening sealant is always a good idea on any slip joint, a little goes far.

There is no reason to not reinstall the o2 sensor. If you really don't want to, just unplug and disable in TuneECU, don't leave it hanging there lol.

THE acorn nuts give a nice finished look

 

[alpental]

Just so you know, the silicone on the gaskets is only used to hold them in place during assembly at the factory. They use WAY too much at Hinkley, just a little dab will hold the gaskets in place, or you can forgo it all together.

You don't need acorn nuts, just use some normal locking nuts, I put black Ti nuts on mine, no backing off, works great.

High temp non hardening sealant is always a good idea on any slip joint, a little goes far.

There is no reason to not reinstall the o2 sensor. If you really don't want to, just unplug and disable in TuneECU, don't leave it hanging there lol.

You're certain about this? There was so much silicone around the existing gaskets I removed that it seemed like they were almost floating in it - top, base, and all around each one. The new gaskets have little tabs that neatly hold them in place without any silicone necessary. I just don't want a leak.

I know I don't need the acorn nuts, but I like the finish. They don't appear deep enough to mount the CR header plate to the studs, hence why I was looking at nuts. Anyway, I'll wrap it all up and let you know how it goes once the springs from CR arrive. I need to change out my rear tire again anyway.

 

[Claviger]

I'm positive about the silicone for holding the copper gaskets in place. My bike had an absurd amount in it, it is a **** assembly issue at the factory unfortunately. You will probably find the after market header lines up better than the stock one as far as being centered on each exhaust port. I dont silicone anymore to hold them in place...then again, I don't replace the gaskets either and they seal up just fine.

 

[Jeffrey Cochran]

I just used some new Stainless flat washers , lock washers and nuts , it looks good in my opinion !! I also always use new exhaust gaskets , not sure if it is needed but gives me peace of mind !