Broken piston... top end rebuild (turbo motor)

Your liners look great. With Warp's pistons and rods you should be good to go. The moly paste you use when you put it back together to lubricate your turning parts while waiting for the oil to fill the lines and get to those places in the engine.
 
Use a assembly lube to put things back together. One that dissipates in the oil after its warm and running.
Also if you have the white or blue connecting rod bearings do not order new ones. I have a set of each on the shelf.
 
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#1 is red #2 is white and #3 has no color. I was going to eventually ask what do these mean? Guessing it's specific to the crankshaft and not the rod?

Also been thinking more about my "distorted" rods. Another possible scenario that I hadn't thought of is the guy that blew the head gasket actually did go deeper into the motor and for whatever reason installed these rods. I find it hard to believe they came from the factory that way. He most likely replaced any pistons that were damaged too. He then sold the bike.

Perhaps the current damage on the #1 piston happened when the next owner (the guy I bought it from) had the PCV put on and dyno tuned. I'm thinking the dyno shop unknowingly broke the piston while tuning. They noted on the receipt that oil was filling the intake manifold (coming up from the turbo that the crankcase was vented into) and is the reason the guy I bought it from bought the catch can. This would also explain why the compression check that Wayne Tripp performed on the bike was good. Guessing he wouldn't have bought it if Wayne had told him the compression was bad.

From day one that I owned the bike it's had this blow by problem with oil completely filling the catch can within one or two rides if I was in boost at all. I think it was the second time I rode the bike that I first blew out the oil cap. The bike has also always had a slight vibration around 3000 rpm's that doesn't feel quite right. Wonder if it's these rods. Now I'm so glad I'm replacing them. Thanks again for pointing out the eBay sale Scott. Totally killer deal. Just a new OEM piston would have been $170.
 
I don't have much to add in the fix it part. But I would like to say this is an interesting thread and thanks for posting all of what you are doing and finding. I am an enjoying reading and a look forward to following it until the bike is up and running again like it should. Al
 
also reusable for oven cake baking
 
When you look at the manual the color denotes the bearing clearance used. I thought they were all the same color but I am not sure the two engines I have taken apart were all the same. So you will want to check for proper fitment.
 
I would consider having the rods and pistons weight balanced - or just weighed to see if there is any difference between them - just out of interest.
 
warp9.9 said:
Also if you have the white or blue connecting rod bearings do not order new ones. I have a set of each on the shelf.
Click to expand...

My manual only lists white and red connecting rod bearings. Are there really blue too or is that a typo? (I see blue for the crank journal bearings). I'm measuring 40.94mm on my crankpins which is slightly (barely) outside the chart for the red. I'm sure I'd be fine with red as that's what is on there now and leaves it a little loose rather than too tight but wondering if there are blue ones that would bring me into spec.

Do I even need to replace these bearings? Mine look fine. Or is this a standard general practice?

Also, a guy at work is saying I should really hone all three cylinders and use new rings. I wasn't planning on doing either since the ring gap on all my rings is fine and the liners look great. What do you recommend I do? The sound of a fresh ring seating into a fresh honed cylinder does sound nice and I want the best compression I can get so if that's what's usually done I will do it. Just haven't read that here yet.

One more! I ordered the Carpenter bolts. Do those get torqued to the same setting as the OEM or different?

Yes, I'm very ignorant about all this thank you.
 
40.94? is red for sure white would give you more clearance as it is for when the journal is a larger diameter,its up to you i like to replace the bearings you are there now so why not. Dont touch the bores clean and oil thats it . You should use what Carpenter says for head bolts
Measure the clearance with plastigauge But use old bolts for the clearance checks as can only be used once if using OEM rod bolts
 
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Pedro said:
Dont touch the bores clean and oil thats it .
Click to expand...

If I leave the bores alone what about the rings?

The Carpenter bolts are head bolts not rod bolts. Using the OEM for the rods.

I really don't get the point of the plastigauge measurement. The crankpin measures 40.94 which is barely within spec (I'm certainly not replacing the crank right now). If I select the appropriate red bearings I'm good to go. Am I missing something? It looks like the manual is saying to do a plastigauge measurement to see if you need to measure the crankpin but then it says to measure the crankpin to select the bearing so what's the point of the plastigauge measurement?
 
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