brand new R3 stalls out in traffic - YIKES!

Idling is about the worst thing you can do to an engine. They run very inefficient and foul up quicker when idling.

It's less a problem with fuel injection...still there's no need to do 12 minute tunes every time you ride...it does indeed waste gas!
 
after the "dealer's fix" with a "re-mapping" or whatever electronic gizzmo stuff they did, it has stalled out 3 time, each time being within the first 2 minutes of ride time.

i don't think that if i take it back to the dealer they would do anything different than they did the first time, so i've been thinking (that can be dangerous), could it be one of two things...

1. running too high of octane gas, i have been running 93 (i believe, using higher octane fuel requires more heat and more timing precision to burn correctly (less per-detination, my R3 does "burble a lot when letting off the throttle at say 2000+ rpm), but i would think that precise timing would be taken care of by EFI. i'm not trying to start an argument about the pros/cons of running higher octane gas, so let's please don't go down that sideways trail but keep the thread about stalling out at low rpms)

2. perhaps one of her sensors or the EFI system "drifts" into place as the engine warms up, which would mean that the engine is slightly "off tune" (whatever that means) till it warms up, i'm not smart enough about EFI systems, but i do know this is exactly what happens to my 79 Spitfire (a carbureted system).

thoughts?

thanks!

Todd
 
Easy answer on the gas, use 87.
The manual calls for 87. Stock bikes don't like premium gas and it might fix the problem.
 
yea, i had planned to test out this theory on my next tank of gas, which is like tomorrow...

thoughts on using non-ethanol gas, would it have the same "computer screwing-up" effect?
 
after the "dealer's fix" with a "re-mapping" or whatever electronic gizzmo stuff they did, it has stalled out 3 time, each time being within the first 2 minutes of ride time.

i don't think that if i take it back to the dealer they would do anything different than they did the first time, so i've been thinking (that can be dangerous), could it be one of two things...

1. running too high of octane gas, i have been running 93 (i believe, using higher octane fuel requires more heat and more timing precision to burn correctly (less per-detination, my R3 does "burble a lot when letting off the throttle at say 2000+ rpm), but i would think that precise timing would be taken care of by EFI. i'm not trying to start an argument about the pros/cons of running higher octane gas, so let's please don't go down that sideways trail but keep the thread about stalling out at low rpms)

2. perhaps one of her sensors or the EFI system "drifts" into place as the engine warms up, which would mean that the engine is slightly "off tune" (whatever that means) till it warms up, i'm not smart enough about EFI systems, but i do know this is exactly what happens to my 79 Spitfire (a carbureted system).

thoughts?

thanks!

Todd
Not to add to the fuel octane argument but for the heck of it have you tried a tank or so of the recomended octane. I have not seen the newer model requirements but when mine came out they recommended 89 and I think they changed to 87. Its just a starting place. Now it could be something simple like throttle bodies out of balance slightly. The thing about the dealers software when it comes to certain things like throttle body balancing is they do not get to see the measurements on each cylinder they just turn screws until the tool says balanced (within what ever tolerance there gear is set for). The aftermarket software can be more finite when making adjustments. Not to kick the shop as its what they are given and required to use.

Again just trying to add to your thought pattern so you can sort it out.
 
Back
Top