Anthony5900

Your regular fat guy, mech, family guy.
Joined
Mar 7, 2024
Messages
22
Location
Manchester
Ride
Triumph Rocket 3 X
Good afternoon R3 Owners,

i am due new pads in the roadster 2015, it has ABS and also upon doing this i am replacing the seals on the callipers,
so i just want to clarify this before i touch anything, i can strip the callipers and clean them and then just bleed them as if they are just a normal set of callipers right ?

Thanks,
Anthony.
 
Good afternoon R3 Owners,

i am due new pads in the roadster 2015, it has ABS and also upon doing this i am replacing the seals on the callipers,
so i just want to clarify this before i touch anything, i can strip the callipers and clean them and then just bleed them as if they are just a normal set of callipers right ?

Thanks,
Anthony.
yes as long as the system stays full of fluid. Just use a rubber plug to plug off the line so it wont drip empty.
Are your calipers leaking?
 
yes as long as the system stays full of fluid. Just use a rubber plug to plug off the line so it wont drip empty.
Are your calipers leaking?
no they are not leaking, i just want to give them a real good clean and pistons a clean etc.

they sound like they are beginning to bind etc so was thinking clean and strip the whole calliper.
 
no they are not leaking, i just want to give them a real good clean and pistons a clean etc.

they sound like they are beginning to bind etc so was thinking clean and strip the whole calliper.
Probably unnecessary. Flushing with fresh DOT 4 will cleanup the system and remove any moisture induced corrosion buildup. Pulling the caliper apart to replace the seals will introduce air that has to be purged. The ABS portion of the system also needs to be flushed and to do that requires actuation of the ABS valve. If you have a Dealer Tool or TuneECU it's not difficult. Once all new fluid is in the system you're good to go for another 2 years.
 
Probably unnecessary. Flushing with fresh DOT 4 will cleanup the system and remove any moisture induced corrosion buildup. Pulling the caliper apart to replace the seals will introduce air that has to be purged. The ABS portion of the system also needs to be flushed and to do that requires actuation of the ABS valve. If you have a Dealer Tool or TuneECU it's not difficult. Once all new fluid is in the system you're good to go for another 2 years.
so you are saying if i just split the callipers i will have to purge the abs ?, this is why i am asking i have heard several storys now some for you can just pop seals out clean and rebuild with you normal bleed operation, and other say if i do this i have to purge the abs system.

i am still conflicted here then, i just simple want to clean the callipers inside and out as they look relatively dirty from road crap and brake dust.
 
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You can spruce up the calipers by washing them without dismantling them. When you say "replace seals" that means taking the pistons out of the caliper and removing the old seals. Unless the seals are leaking brake fluid that's unnecessary. You can simply remove the caliper from the carrier and use a toothbrush to clean it up to remove brake dust and road grime. If the pads are relatively thick i.e. don't need replacing then put the calipers back on the carrier and flush the system with fresh DOT 4. The ABS valve is also sitting there with old brake fluid in it and should be flushed with fresh DOT 4 as well.

To do that means you need to activate the valve to allow fresh fluid to flow thru it, The ABS system if you aren't familiar is simply a means to reduce the hydraulic pressure applied by the brake lever/pedal so wheel lockup is avoided. It does that by opening a flow path for fluid (usually by pulsing open and closed when activated). A Dealer Tool or TuneECU will hold the valve open electrically to allow fresh brake fluid thru or you could just take it out on the road and really hammer down on the brakes to actuate the valve. Either way you get a fluid exchange.
 
You can spruce up the calipers by washing them without dismantling them. When you say "replace seals" that means taking the pistons out of the caliper and removing the old seals. Unless the seals are leaking brake fluid that's unnecessary. You can simply remove the caliper from the carrier and use a toothbrush to clean it up to remove brake dust and road grime. If the pads are relatively thick i.e. don't need replacing then put the calipers back on the carrier and flush the system with fresh DOT 4. The ABS valve is also sitting there with old brake fluid in it and should be flushed with fresh DOT 4 as well.

To do that means you need to activate the valve to allow fresh fluid to flow thru it, The ABS system if you aren't familiar is simply a means to reduce the hydraulic pressure applied by the brake lever/pedal so wheel lockup is avoided. It does that by opening a flow path for fluid (usually by pulsing open and closed when activated). A Dealer Tool or TuneECU will hold the valve open electrically to allow fresh brake fluid thru or you could just take it out on the road and really hammer down on the brakes to actuate the valve. Either way you get a fluid exchange.
perfect, this is what i needed to read.

i got seals as they were cheap and i usually replace them on a new bike i get so i know where i am at with them, have the rocket since November and done 2.5k miles on it since.

i have tune ECU with licence so i should be able to bleed the brakes and abs no problem !

is there a separate reservoir for the ABS pump to fill up up ?

thanks.
 
perfect, this is what i needed to read.

i got seals as they were cheap and i usually replace them on a new bike i get so i know where i am at with them, have the rocket since November and done 2.5k miles on it since.

i have tune ECU with licence so i should be able to bleed the brakes and abs no problem !

is there a separate reservoir for the ABS pump to fill up up ?

thanks.
No reservoir, the ABS pump is in the system. Item 1 in the diagram below is the ABS modulator (pump) that is part of your linked brakes. The speed rings on the front and rear of the bike provide input to a computer that monitors wheel spin and speed and activates the modulator when those are out of sync. As you can see by the amount of piping you can flush the whole system and end up bypassing that unit. That's why TuneECU has a function to open the modulator to flush fresh fluid thru it. You can also just try to lockup the wheels at speed and it will pump fresh fluid thru it too, and it's a lot more exciting if you find out the modulator is frozen and not functioning (just don't be going too fast when you try it).

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