Bleeding ABS brakes question?

trapper

.040 Over
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Messages
79
Location
colorado Springs
Ride
2014 R111 T and 2012 R111 Roaster
I installed floorboards on my 2011 R3R and had to remove the break line in the process. I have never bead breaks that are part of an ABS system and I was wondering if anyone has done it on the R3R and if the process is different in any way from doing it on a standard break system?
Trapper
 
I installed floorboards on my 2011 R3R and had to remove the break line in the process. I have never bead breaks that are part of an ABS system and I was wondering if anyone has done it on the R3R and if the process is different in any way from doing it on a standard break system?
Trapper

Good question, I'm looking forward to the answer.
 
I installed floorboards on my 2011 R3R and had to remove the break line in the process. I have never bead breaks that are part of an ABS system and I was wondering if anyone has done it on the R3R and if the process is different in any way from doing it on a standard break system?
Trapper

I have bled the brakes on my 2010 Roadster after changing the pegs and rails over to a 2009 STD model.
To bleed them properly you need software such as Dealertool and a laptop which allows you to open the ABS solenoid valves and purge old fluid and trapped air that may enter the solenoid.
That being said I first bled my brakes the good old fashion way and they worked fine with no noticeable air in the line. I later used Dealer tool and done it as per the book just so I could fully flush the old fluid out.

What type of floorboards have you fitted. I am thinking about fitting some to mine.
 
I decided to purchase the Triumph boards for the 2008 Classic model and fit them to the Roadster. Well as with all things the second time around would be lot easier and better. I completely remade the bracket for master cylinder and then had the entire part re-chromed. If I had it to do over this is what I would do. Purchase the 2008 classic floorboard kit then you must buy the shift linkage for the 2008 bike and the break side peddles bolt and the shift side shifter bolt. This is where I made my mistake I should have also purchased the 2008 master cylinder as well then I could have made a simple bracket as you can see on this site ( ) but I saw this too late and thought that it required the same master cylinder that came on the bike because of the ABS. Therefore I remade the entire unit when I didn’t need to and it appears that this simple bracket is all that is needed if you use the 2008 STD master cylinder. This would make it 100% easier to do and a better finished product. If you have question just ask and I will try to help you if I can. Thanks for the tip to take it to the dealer to bleed the breaks, they work fine now.

Trapper
 

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I installed floorboards on my 2011 R3R and had to remove the break line in the process. I have never bead breaks that are part of an ABS system and I was wondering if anyone has done it on the R3R and if the process is different in any way from doing it on a standard break system?
Trapper

Old thread but you do NOT need special software to bleed the brakes. You do need software to bleed the ABS system though but that shouldn't be necessary unless you open up the ABS system or change parts in the ABS system. Even the factory service manual confirms that. I've found this misinformation in several threads. Virtually all the responses I have read to this and similar questions would have one believe that you can't bleed the brakes at all unless you have the software. Not true.
 
Old thread but you do NOT need special software to bleed the brakes. You do need software to bleed the ABS system though but that shouldn't be necessary unless you open up the ABS system or change parts in the ABS system. Even the factory service manual confirms that. I've found this misinformation in several threads. Virtually all the responses I have read to this and similar questions would have one believe that you can't bleed the brakes at all unless you have the software. Not true.

Far as I know, you cannot bleed the ECU without the Dealer Tool.
If you wish to dump old and replace fresh fluid, I found this to be necessary.
 
@Mittzy
I have and use one similar to that.
I guess you got away without needing the Dealer Tool then?
 
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