Battery Keeps Dying

Scorpion

budman said:

..the Odyssey battery and the Odyssey charger seem to work for some..they didn't do squat for me..my next move is the scorpion battery..

YTX20DHL Battery | Harley Davidson 12 Volt Motorcycle Batteries

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I put a new Scorpion battery in my '07 Classic after having to jump start the bike almost every time now that it has gotten cooler out (this has been going on since about October). I assume the battery that I replaced was the original. I replaced the battery on December 4th, started it and drove it back up in the trailer. I went for a ride this past Saturday after letting it sit for a week, and sure enough, it turned over about once and the new Scorpion battery was dead. Since it was mail-ordered, maybe I should have run the bike for a while after putting the new battery in, but didn't. So either mine has some kind of slow drain that I need to find or it's just not going to start in cold weather without jumping it. I leave it in a trailer when I'm not riding so it is whatever the temperature is. It feels like I'm commiting Rocket abuse by leaving it outside, but my wife just won't let me keep it in the living room.

Installing Compression Releases -- Hot Bike Magazine
Anyone ever thought of comp. releases?
The Raider batt. is half the size of the average V twin batt. due to its internal compression releases.
Thats if this batt. problem is really gettin to ya.
Someone could make a kit with jigs and drills for rocket instalation.
FLIPPERRRR

Or get S&S to make ya some Rocket cams like these..LOLOLO
S&S Cycle | S&S Easy Start Cams

Measure the volts on the battery before attempting the start. Then measure the charging volts while running, which should read 14.5 thereabouts. Measure the battery immediately after riding. A new one should be 13.5 V at least. Lastly before the next ride, measure volts again to see the difference between when you parked it and when you want it again.

You could have someone check the amps needed to crank the thing as well.

have you done any electrcal mod's

if have you it might have a constant draw somewhere
i installed a power port incorrectly and had the same
problem

battery tender

also try a battery tender they work wonders even in cold weather.

Just an update...

After exactly 2 weeks of sitting, I went over to my neighbor's house to take his bike for a 40-minute ride. We've been having up-and-down temps during that time (70s/80s for highs and lows in the 30s/40s), but it fired right up anyway. I'm not using a battery tender, either. So far, so good...

same problem

I have an 06 and up till last summer had factory battery in it. If left for over a week it wouldnt start anymore, no accessories so I just got a new (Gel.) battery an even in 30 degree temp.s it starts.

Still no Fix

The dealership has had the bike since before Thanksgiving. They now say they can reproduce the problem and agree that something is wrong, but they are stumped.

They did say that they are escalating it to Triumph, so hopefully some action will be taken soon. Riding season is rapidly approaching.

nethound said:

...Riding season is rapidly approaching.

Click to expand...

Not rapidly enough for my taste!

Hope they diagnose your battery problem.

PC545MJ 3 years old. Very reliable until this winter. Last 3 months, it will not start the bike when temps are below 40F. Got an Odyssey Ultimizer charger and it did improve the starting performance. But the battery simply didn't have enough cajones to start the cold-hearted SOB after the first 10 seconds of cranking if the bike sat out in the cold.

Eventually have to get it jump started to get it fired up. When I do this, it takes a full 15 seconds of cranking to get the beast to light off. Fuel, spark, and air. Let's assume it's getting air. Then either the fuel pump / injectors aren't delivering enough fuel or the spark is too wimpy. I may need to use 87 octane in the winter instead of 93 to help ignition.

Measured voltage immediately after a failed startup attempt when the battery died after ONE 10 second crank. It was down to about 11 volts with everything turned off. That's not enough to power the ECU hardly, let alone the coil on plugs when the starting current draws the voltage even lower. This battery started with 13.1 volts after sitting in the cold all day. It was fully charged by all accounts. The alternator voltage cycles between 13.8 and 14 volts while running. There is no sulfation and the battery has a full saturation charge from the Ultimizer.

Something is not happening like it should on startup. By the way, with high beams on, the current draw is 10 AMPS before even starting up. That will draw the battery from 13.5 volts to less than 12 in just a couple of minutes.

Conclusion: Initial electrical load of 8-10 amps + high starting current due to big motor and lots of rotating mass and thick oil = significant voltage drop, leading to unreliable ECU operation and/or poor fuel delivery and/or weak spark.

Recommendation to Triumph - - Put a frickin' delay on the headlights until the engine is running. If you need help with the specifics, give Yamaha a call. It's standard on the Stratoliners. Any way we can bypass the headlight interlock?

I may try to hook up TuneECU after the bike has had a good cold soak and then start it up to see if there are any DTCs or symptoms. Failing that, I'm going to stow a can of ether to persuade the mutha.