Any Tricks to Removing Locked Fuel Cap?

I'm not in front of the bike currently; but there are 6 or so Hex Bolts holding the flange on, and no other screens are visible from the outside. I believe those "2 Phillip Head" screws are only accessible once the lock/cap is opened.. wouldn't be able to back them out from the inside as they would hit the locked cap..

But taking it off might be productive; if there is a hole in the bottom large enough to fit a hand/arm to reach up and push the latch out of the way.. or maybe a long enough pry bar.. I'll try that tomorrow..
 

I don't think I called any "brand locksmiths" though I'm not really sure what those would be.. I just opened up Google Maps, and entered "Locksmitch near me" and started calling down the list until I got tired of getting the same answer.. One was "Stevens Locksmith" another was "Brians Lock & Key" and a few other odd ball names, and a few with names starting with City/Towns they were located in..

And its really not all that ridiculous; the thread at least.. since I tried what you were suggesting, a locksmith, before making the post..
I thought maybe there was some trick out there someone had use if they were in the same situation.. I mean, why would they make it nearly impossible to get the **** thing off if someone lost the key.. other than the obvious reason of getting people to buy all new parts.. Unfortunately we don't all live in areas that are near quality locksmiths.. hell we don't even have a Triumph Dealer in the entire state.
 
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I'd just jam it into the key slot and twist it open. It will resist a bit until the tiny lock pins shear off. Hold the cap with one hand to keep it steady as you twist the screwdriver.
 
This is weird. I have 1 key that unlocks the seat, fuel tank and operates the ignition. Your model seems to have a separate key for the tank??? Is this true? If so, did you always have 2 separate keys for the bike? The parts breakdown shows 1 key for ignition, seat and tank. What happened to your bike to have 2?

When I purchased my Roadster I received 2 badged keys and an unbadged blank in the owners manual complete with key code which could be used to cut new keys. Do you still have the owners manual packet? If so, look for that spare blank and or code. As @TURBO200R4 stated, if your bike is original, the key that unlocks the seat should work in the tank and operate the ignition.
 
I have an 05 and one key fits all three locks.
 
RebelMarsh said:
But taking it off might be productive; if there is a hole in the bottom large enough to fit a hand/arm to reach up and push the latch out of the way.. or maybe a long enough pry bar.. I'll try that tomorrow..
Click to expand...
That was the idea. its a big enough hole to get your arm in and its just 2 small screws that ARE accessible though the oval part of the filler port.
I actually tried picking the lock today, a wave rake attack did not yield anything. The key is double sided so it would ,IMO, take a professional to pick this, i tried my amateur attempt even knowing what my key is and i was unable to do it. BUT i have like 5 hours of picking experience... basically nothing, i think if you got a double sided rake and a tensioner and a backer, it could be brute forced by luck attacks.
Put it this way, i can rake open almost any master lock in seconds with nearly no skill.
I think that i may try again with more tension and with a keeper to hold the set of pins in place as i attack the other side... i tried useing some cotter pins but no dice.
If i had skill, im sure i could do the job.
 
Mighty Mouse said:
Maybe flood the inside of the key/lock with WD-40. Put some WD also on the key you have and wiggle it around. Does the key go in at all? My 05 key and 14 key fit everything.
Click to expand...
imo do not use anything but dry lock grade lubricants. wd40 can help but once the job is done, flush it all out with brake clean. wd40 attacks dirt and damages the seals. been there, done that.
 
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