Android app

If there was a leak through any of the ports, the pressure would be HIGHER not lower. (lower number means 'better' vacuum) i.e. #2 is pulling LESS air than 1 or 3.
The numbers don't so much suggest leaks, just very poor balance (or lack of)


Now that you mention that, they probably were not far off. I was just balancing them while doing the 30,000 service - When I pulled the factory intake plumbing i accidentally pulled off a vacuum line from Throttle bodies..... I couldn't get them to balance, all it would do when turning the adjuster screws was affect the engine idle up or down - I knew that was wrong & started looking for a problem & found the vac line off. So at least now I know that a vac line being off will keep you from being able to balance the t/b's
Thanks for clarifying my Alzheimer's though............
 
If there was a leak through any of the ports, the pressure would be HIGHER not lower. (lower number means 'better' vacuum) i.e. #2 is pulling LESS air than 1 or 3.
The numbers don't so much suggest leaks, just very poor balance (or lack of)
Oops I was Bass ackwards
 
If there was a leak through any of the ports, the pressure would be HIGHER not lower. (lower number means 'better' vacuum) i.e. #2 is pulling LESS air than 1 or 3.
The numbers don't so much suggest leaks, just very poor balance (or lack of)

Could it mean ports 1 and 3 may have a leak ? Or this would affect all 3 equal? So if the later is correct i need to adjust them , does anyone have pics of what to adjust please ?
 
Probably not leak when it's pulling vacuum in low 600s
you just need to redial it in
 
Could it mean ports 1 and 3 may have a leak ? Or this would affect all 3 equal? So if the later is correct i need to adjust them , does anyone have pics of what to adjust please ?

They are on back side so you will need to remove the factory intake plumbing if you still have that
 
What does hPa stand for?

Hectopascal. 1 bar = 100,000 Pa (1,000 hPa). 1 bar or 1,000 hPa is very close to the standard atmospheric pressure. Readings below 1,000 hPa indicate vacuum, which is the case behind the throttle blades when the engine is running (unless we're talking about forced induction).
 

Thank you!
Now I gotta do some research & reading . . .
 
going off on a tangent, tune ecu is a bit confusing when it comes to throttle pressure readings.

since we're reading from a MAP sensor i.e. absolute pressure, the gauges should be reading about 1000hpa when the bike is not running.
and then when it is idling, the needles should be down around the 400hpa mark. when you rev it up, the needles would climb closer to 1000 mark. if you had a turbo or supercharger, as you rev it up more the needle would go past the 1000hpa mark and hit say 2000hpa if you were running 1 bar boost (and the scale went that far, of course).

however. tune ecu readings start at 0, when bike is not running, which means that the readings shown are 'gauge' readings i.e. not absolute.
when you idle the engine the needles float about 600hpa (should be -600hpa if we are on the gauge and not absolute scale), and as you rev it up they get closer to 0.

having that - in front of the numbers would correct the readings to actual throttle pressure readings (on the gauge scale tune ECU uses), but the readings would not be raw readings as raw readings would be on the absolute scale.
tune ecu must do some simple maths to change the reading from 400hpa (absolute pressure at idle) to display the 600hpa. but of course it should be -600hpa to be correct.

i understand nobody cares what the numbers are, as long as they are the same (why triumph's official gizmo for throttle balancing just says "they're grand" and don't give any numbers), but having gone this far with tune ecu why not have it absolutely (pun intended) correct

/end rant