A Simple Way To Add Ground Wire Capacity

You would want the current to be divided equally?? Also if the wire is under sized and one is shorter than the other all the current would or could travel on that wire??

I'm sorry Jag, it is just crazy to be concerned about resistance and wire length in this scenario.

Do you know what the approximate resistance is in a 3 ft piece of 8 gage wire....it's 0.0018846 ohms. And a 6 gage wire is approximately 0.0011853 ohm. This equates to meaning ABSOLUTELY NOTHING with regards to adding a ground wire. DEcosse is completely right....and I quote.....

"Besides not having to be same length, they can be different wire gauges.
Current will flow through both cables - if they are exactly same resistance, the current would be divided equally;
if different the split would simply to be to have slightly more in the lower resistance cable, than in the other.
But you still achieve the primary objective, which is to reduce the voltage drop across the cable(s)"
 
Yes, I agree wire that short it does not matter, but for ease of installation I purchased the triumph cable for 8$ and job was done in 15 minutes and the starter motor does seem to spin a little faster.
For 8 bucks it is a good mod.
 
Yes, I agree wire that short it does not matter, but for ease of installation I purchased the triumph cable for 8$ and job was done in 15 minutes and the starter motor does seem to spin a little faster.
For 8 bucks it is a good mod.

It sounds good to me! I'm glad you got it done.
 
Yes, I agree wire that short it does not matter ...
Jag - it does not matter how short or long the wire is as far as current sharing goes - current will always be shared between the two legs; for example with two pieces of wire where one has twice the resistance of the other, the current would be split with 2/3 into the lower resistance leg and 1/3 through the lower. The object is just to lower the total resistance to lessen the voltage drop
Also regarding the length you could (not that anyone would!) add a 10' length if 0 ga and that would still share current with the original

Your other reasons - low cost & ease - are solid - leave it at that! :D
 
the current would be split with 2/3 into the lower resistance leg and 1/3 through the lower.
The last word there should be 'higher' - can't seem to edit on my phone

Incidentally not meaning to be picking on you, just trying to help your understanding
 
Exotic materials and the like are just silly for this. I mean, yeah, the purer the copper the better but the effect of pure vs "non pure" is so small it doesn't even register, most likely. For "bulk transmission" of electricity, as long as it's conductive and copper-ish it's good. Even in the audiophile world where talking speaker cables there's a lot of arrant nonsense about cables and materials etc... most of it total bull****, so I'm kind of allergic to the entire topic. The one thing that matters for a cable like this is that it is thick enough to transmit enough power. If it gets too thin it does start restricting the flow, so that's why speaker cables that are hair thin will make inferior sound. But once you get enough of a cross section, the cheapest copper wire you can buy is just as good as the most expensive one.

There are lots of misconceptions about electricity in general, and I'm sure I'm a victim of some of those myself. People often think powering the starter motor is like pushing something from the battery to the motor and that the motor can burn out if there is too thick a cable etc... but it doesn't work that way, the battery is a pool from which the motor draws what it can handle when it comes to amps, is a more accurate-ish way to look at it.
 
I always use gold wire for the best results. You don't get corrosion problems either. :cool:
Fine on the corrosion front - But gold actually has higher resistivity than copper. You could try pure Graphene Wire. And of course bathe it in liquid Helium.

You could live in the middle of a desert - not much issue with corrosion then either. :p
 
Back
Top