A new theory

[sonny]

All I can add to the conversation is once the man in the shed found out that i had 50,000 on the bike he TOLD ME to replace the cam chain. Will visually check cam guides via mirror and flashlight. Have a feeling that they are OK. Around 10,000 miles ago replaced clutch and they looked fine.

 

[Doc Roc]

Ya still need the cam cover off. But ya the guides can go in from underside without pulling things like the cams or engine what I want to try sometime is changing from the auto tensioner like Doc has to Nevs manual tensioner (one nice piece of design and workmanship) without removing the front cover, radiator and everyhing up front. Just the cam cover.

I see no reason why you can't do it if you can maintain anticlockwise tension on the inlet cam shaft, everything will stay in place.

 

[warp9.9]

I see no reason why you can't do it if you can maintain anticlockwise tension on the inlet cam shaft, everything will stay in place.

Let me know if your opinion changes once you get into yours.

 

[Neville Lush]

One can change the tensioner by taking off the valve cover and getting a friend to keep tension on the blade with a bar whilst you swap out the part. I have done it by myself, but that's because I have no friends.

 

[warp9.9]

One can change the tensioner by taking off the valve cover and getting a friend to keep tension on the blade with a bar whilst you swap out the part. I have done it by myself, but that's because I have no friends.

Thats what I was thinking right down the front right corner if the head.

 

[Doc Roc]

One can change the tensioner by taking off the valve cover and getting a friend to keep tension on the blade with a bar whilst you swap out the part. I have done it by myself, but that's because I have no friends.

There is an opportunity for you to create a tool to do that Nev.

 

[Doc Roc]

Can one of you wonderful English Gentlemen please advise me of a bike shop in the UK that will sell me parts and post to Australia. Just got quoted $320 for a cam chain and sprockets with a 3 to 4 week lead time.
NOT HAPPY..

 

[Doc Roc]

Can someone please tell me if the part number for the cam chain has been the same from the first model.

 

[RockOn]

Can someone please tell me if the part number for the cam chain has been the same from the first model.

On the BikeBandit site I see this same part number from 2005 all the way up through 2018 R3 models:
Triumph SPRS KIT,CAMCHAIN & SPROCKETS Part # T1141127 for $80.18

The cam chain is item #6 in their diagrams which just shows the cam chain......same diagram for all years but at some point I noticed they show two different part #'s, the one above(T1141127) plus another part #, with two different descriptions for the item #6. The other cam chain listed is $114.00. So, don't know what that is about.....difference between standard and touring cam chains? Item #6 is just the chain in the diagram so don't know why they use the words "kit" and"sprockets" in the description in addition to the "cam chain".

 

[Doc Roc]

On the BikeBandit site I see this same part number from 2005 all the way up through 2018 R3 models:
Triumph SPRS KIT,CAMCHAIN & SPROCKETS Part # T1141127 for $80.18

The cam chain is item #6 in their diagrams which just shows the cam chain......same diagram for all years but at some point I noticed they show two different part #'s, the one above(T1141127) plus another part #, with two different descriptions for the item #6. The other cam chain listed is $114.00. So, don't know what that is about.....difference between standard and touring cam chains? Item #6 is just the chain in the diagram so don't know why they use the words "kit" and"sprockets" in the description in addition to the "cam chain".

I know the chain must be the same is mine has 170 links [made by D.I.D in Japan] but there is some confusion going on as the guides I received are totally different to my ones,the guy at the shop needed to know my engine number because his parts list said things changed after a certain number????. When I fit the new chain I will mix and match the guides to get the most travel on the tensioner.
My old guides are fine just the chain is out of spec. I even got a second hand chain [$35]off bike that had done 7000kms but it also was out of spec, very strange.
I'm making a tool today to hold the cam shafts via their hex's not the sprockets which will be more accurate and allow better access and view of timing marks. Photos to follow.