A little perplexed and curious.

[WyldCFH]

@WyldCFH
They are big files.
PM me an addy and I'll send you some on a CD or flash if you prefer.

You have a PM. Thanks

 

[Paul Bryant]

I am not near as fast as when in my prime, or even through my 40s. However, I am very grateful to my continued years of efforts that have allowed me to still ride well for my 73 years.

Amen to that Bull, and respect, you have 10 years on me.

 

[chrisw]

Just back from a weekend away with an assortment of bikes with the usual stories to tell but had an experience that has left me wondering.
I was following a gen 2 hayabusa through undulating back country roads at reasonable speed when I entered a left hand sweeper with about a 10deg incline. The busa was 50 to 100m ahead and as I cut through the apex my peg feelers were dragging at about 100kmh and I shifted to fourth and opened the throttle to close the gap.
It was then that the rear tyre lost traction and stepped out to the right by about half a meter, I changed up to fifth at this point pulled her back on line. The back tyre is an exedra max at about 50% of its life. I’m not sure if the road temp played a part but it was probably about 40deg C.

The bike has a ramair fitted with standard headers and I’m considering performance headers with lush cams to boost hp in 2020.

I’m curious how others manage the balance between traction and hp.
Is it as simple as throttle control or do you get used to spinning up the back tyre in the twisties?

was it just the pegs touching down or did u lift her on the bars I often worry about hitting the bars and lifting the wheels. especially if pushing the front (all the weight going forward. half a meter is a lot. well held

Of course it could have just been crap on the road

 

[chrisw]

I bought me set of them feeler things to protect the floorboards. Let Scott test the bike and scratch them. He did only one side tho.

Some smart ones come by an feel the feelers to see what'you got. Scott, the bike is soo much better with the 444, progressives and new bearings in the front and handlebars back in stock position. Scared to let you ride it. Ridding with seat in the #5 position.

feelers? they disappeared along time ago luckily I have plates so still a bit of metal to go

 

[Tripps]

I haven't met anyone yet that looked like they might be able to out- ride @1olbull .
Unfortunately on my Touring with the Carpenter pipe needing to clear the bags, my muffler touches before the floorboard on the left, the little wear on there could be from before, though that's unlikely, given my skill level when I first got the bike. Could be it touches just after, there's more wear on the muffler than the floorboard.

 

[barbagris]

I would very much like to know what this "advisor" of yours used for a basis of this opinion?

Well to be honest - because I trust him. He's a biker too - does monster mileages most weekends and as he said "that's how I'd do it to mine". He's a second generation "tyre" specialist.
His dad is 90 and there most days too. Has has been involved with vulcanised rubber 75 years. Every question I hit them with - they give a clear reasoned answer.

I asked them both -and both gave the same reply (this is NOT always the case) - that the advantages of the tread shape in and direction in the wet far out weighed any minimal risk of de-lamination. The latter because it is, after all, a Michelin. All other things like the famous Azarro and the Bridgestone - they suggested reverse fitment as a valid option.

 

[1olbull]

Well to be honest - because I trust him. He's a biker too - does monster mileages most weekends and as he said "that's how I'd do it to mine". He's a second generation "tyre" specialist.
His dad is 90 and there most days too. Has has been involved with vulcanised rubber 75 years. Every question I hit them with - they give a clear reasoned answer.

I asked them both -and both gave the same reply (this is NOT always the case) - that the advantages of the tread shape in and direction in the wet far out weighed any minimal risk of de-lamination. The latter because it is, after all, a Michelin. All other things like the famous Azarro and the Bridgestone - they suggested reverse fitment as a valid option.

I call BS. If it's good to reverse all the other tires, it should also be better to reverse the Michelin.
You will appreciate it when you are not thinking about this the next time you're doing the ton or more!

 

[barbagris]

I call BS. If it's good to reverse all the other tires, it should also be better to reverse the Michelin.

And your source is--------?

Note they say reverse is an OPTION. In their opinion the reversal issue is NOT as big an issue with radials as it is/was with crossply.

 

[1olbull]

And your source is--------?

Note they say reverse is an OPTION. In their opinion the reversal issue is NOT as big an issue with radials as it is/was with crossply.

You.
What you wrote your "experts" stated.
All other things like the famous Azarro and the Bridgestone - they suggested reverse fitment as a valid option.

Think about this, Chris.
If you run a rear tire on the front wheel in situ, possible de lamination is always there as a possibility. The minor directional difference in tread pattern is only a factor when it rains.
How much do you ride in the rain?
When riding in the rain, do you race as fast as you can and push the tire traction to it's limits?
For me, tis a no brainer. I shall go with the manufactured intent regarding the construction of the tire for 100% operation over a small teaction advantage during the miniscule percentage I ride in the rain.
I can control the rain traction issue simply by using more care. I cannot control creating a manufactured issue.

 

[barbagris]

All other things like the famous Azarro and the Bridgestone - they suggested reverse fitment as a valid option.

OPTION not RECOMENDATION - But with the Michie the recommended strongly against reversal. Based on THAT specific marque and tyre.

Steve - I do not pretend to be a TYRE expert - but these guys actually visit Avon, Metzler, Bridgestone (EU), Michelin etc regularly.
They don't just do bike rubber, they do cars, trucks, and heavy machinery. I think they have a pretty good idea.

And trust matters. As you say - Think on that when at speed - I don't have to, because I trust their knowledge and not just "street lore".

I do NOT choose to ride in the rain if I don't have to. But my long sustained high-ish speed trips for a month or so meant that RAIN was probable somewhere and thus wet weather grip on maybe (certainly in Spain) greasy roads is a foregone conclusion of necessity. And in the UK - well you can guess. This matters far more to me than de-lamination by riding close to the tyres dry load/speed rating - which I will never achieve on an R3. I don't "trailer" - leastways never have done; it might be something the future brings though I doubt it. Would be cheaper to keep a spare bike in the UK. I should maybe add that I am VERY sparse on brake use (and any tyre stress therefrom resulting). I cannot actually remember the last time I changed pads except in a full rebuild. OK I can - was the missus car.

This is all making the best of a poor situation anyway. None of this would even matter if there was a decent Z rated tyre to R3 spec available.

I've used the tyre place exclusively for all my tyres (bike,car 4wd) since I've lived where I am now - some 20 years. Their advice has always been honest and often in contrary to their wallets gain. And yes I do check prices elsewhere. But for a tenner difference - why go elsewhere?

You are free to do as you see fit naturally - but I will always ask their opinions and if they make a STRONG recommendation - follow it.