5.75 Daymaker alternatives?

I took some pictures of the back of the headlight for everyone. It is not the same in the video. Looks very well done in my opinion. Do get me wrong... I really wand the JW adaptive headlights, but my pocket book could only get me these!!!
 

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Interesting that we can do a comparison and I have to say my stock lights are fine BUT I would like even better lighting and will be installing the cheapo bulb replacements since others are bragging about how good they are and are only $40 total

A side by side (off-on) visual comparison is OK; however, you must remember that the light you can see is NOT the light that shall allow you to discern and identify a hazard in your path.
A good light is sometimes visible for miles, but that does not equate to you being visible from the source!
As I stated a minimum of 3.2 lux or .3 foot candles of illumination is necessary for a human to discern and identify a neutral colored object (medium gray).
 

OK, OK my bearded Amigo!
I shall attempt to get a ROUND-TUIT ASAP.
Now that you suggest it, I 'spose a test with the Clearwater is indeed in order - when I receive them.
Be aware that I have ordered only one Erica so far. Perhaps a second will be necessary - perhaps not.
 
I took some pictures of the back of the headlight for everyone. It is not the same in the video. Looks very well done in my opinion. Do get me wrong... I really wand the JW adaptive headlights, but my pocket book could only get me these!!!

I would like to give these a testing, then we shall KNOW the rest of the story . . .
 
you must remember that the light you can see is NOT the light that shall allow you to discern and identify a hazard in your path.
More to the point - IF YOU CAN SEE LIGHT - IT IS NOT GOING TOWARDS THE ROAD AT ALL - Well unless you've been run over.

In general the disadvantage spouted of refractor (lens) based solutions is there is LESS scatter (i.e. they don't seem as bright stood next to them). In Daylight Only applications this may be a consideration. At night it is not. Units with Reflector based solutions DO generally seem to have a bit more scatter. Truck-Lite for example (yes I know they don't do a 5.75).

Most refractor based solutions (including very high end cars) use what are frankly pretty basic lens coatings too. If they use any at all. This leads to some chromatic aberration. I believe this MAY be intentional as it means you get a slight waning flash of yellow-y light before the full blown onslaught of 5-6000K blueish white light. Reflector based solutions do not and so most mfrs seem to add a bit of scatter into the mirror pattern.

If I could choose I'd go for ADAPTIVE REFLECTOR DIP and REFRACTOR MAIN. But ttbomk this does not exist - and I doubt it ever will as a universal solution. Frankly I was VERY PLEASANTLY surprised that Speaker made a M/C ONLY universal adaptive light. Almost all modern vehicles use something custom shaped. tbh - we should thank all those "old fashioned" Harley owners. As some know I w as building my own adaptive system - as a concept it is unbeatable. Now if Mercedes made that new adaptive array into a bike light - Ah!!!!
 
I shall attempt to get a ROUND-TUIT ASAP.
They took me a whole 20 minutes to fit - Both. And that included adding connectors to the position light.
Now that you suggest it, I 'spose a test with the Clearwater is indeed in order - when I receive them.
Revive my credence. You could throw one of these into the test too. http://www.lightmalls.com/moto-led-...-4t6-led-white-light-motorcycle-driving-light
Be aware that I have ordered only one Erica so far. Perhaps a second will be necessary - perhaps not.
Apart from light output considerations (too much is never enough). Think on this:- What will your total lighting wattage (current draw) be?

As you may well remember - many moons ago - I moved to LED because at over 3000rpms the voltmeter started to dip with the OEM Halogens and OEM Halogen FOGS on. The alternator produces "x" amps max - once it spins at above a certain speed it gives "x" , only "x" and nothing more than "x". But as the rpms rise the amount of amps needed to spark rises. This may vary from bike to bike but it's a factor to be considered if you "cruise" fast-ish. A huge amount of my time is spent at 3200-3500rpm-ish. If I ride to my mum's - 4 hours pretty much constant at 130kph. You can actually start to drain the battery. I once pushed the VM into the red just to see. It took about 10mins at 4000rpms with all lights on.
 
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Good Lord you cheap Bastid!!!!!! I'll buy you a set if you promise to Lemon Pledge my bike - Hurry the heck up!!!!!
Bring the JW Harley daymakers with you I have plenty of pledge on hand