33K, Driveshaft Replacement

[warp9.9]

Okay....so here is my comment and question. My shaft splines were not lubed at my first rear tire change at 7K. I'm sure the guy I had swap the tire out didn't do this. I plan to do this at the next tire change as I will be jacking up and removing the tire myself this time. In looking at the service manual, it looks like I have to remove the rear shock bolt and the 4 other acorn nuts to remove the bevel box to allow access to the driveshaft spline. My question is...once this is done, does the whole drive shaft pull out so you can access both ends or not? Are we talking about just lubricating the bevel box end of the shaft or somehow doing both ends? Does the shaft somehow receive lubrication where it attaches at the engine? The manual addresses the specifics about making sure you insert the axle shaft before tightening and torquing the bevel box bolts , but I don't see much as to whether the drive shaft pulls out. Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of when lubing or more specifically assembling the drive shaft back on the bevel box? This will be on the touring model, not the roadster.

No the drive shaft will not come out or off the forward spline when you pull the bevel box. You would have to remove the swing frame to pull the drive shaft. The sliding action is on the rear splines which is also goes thru temperature changes it is what need to be lubricated. When you pull the box the shaft will drop but it is easy to pick up in with the spline cup going back in with her. Installing the axle and spinning the nut down light ly before tightening the 4 bevel box mounting nuts insures alignment so you do not have to back track and scratch you head when thing are slightly off

Follow torque specifications and sequence and you will be fine. Good time to change the bevel box oil (but not required) I do it every oil change because it is not much and cheaper in the long run.

 

[Jag]

Okay....so here is my comment and question. My shaft splines were not lubed at my first rear tire change at 7K. I'm sure the guy I had swap the tire out didn't do this. I plan to do this at the next tire change as I will be jacking up and removing the tire myself this time. In looking at the service manual, it looks like I have to remove the rear shock bolt and the 4 other acorn nuts to remove the bevel box to allow access to the driveshaft spline. My question is...once this is done, does the whole drive shaft pull out so you can access both ends or not? Are we talking about just lubricating the bevel box end of the shaft or somehow doing both ends? Does the shaft somehow receive lubrication where it attaches at the engine? The manual addresses the specifics about making sure you insert the axle shaft before tightening and torquing the bevel box bolts , but I don't see much as to whether the drive shaft pulls out. Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of when lubing or more specifically assembling the drive shaft back on the bevel box? This will be on the touring model, not the roadster.[/QUOTE


You will be ok easy job, I just did mine for the first time. Watch for the spring on the end of the spline shaft, I put some grease on it to hold it in place. Just cock the bevel box up on a angle and wiggle back and forth quickly and it will slide right on. Also don't forget to clean and re grease the hub gear, use high quality high temp bearing grease. I used this. Good luck.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Every 10,000 miles home boy.

WELL BRO looks like they are using the wrong lube so thats your problem thats why they use special lubricant for driveshaft splines YOU MUST use the correct products or your going to have problems

 

[Bedifferent]

No the drive shaft will not come out or off the forward spline when you pull the bevel box. You would have to remove the swing frame to pull the drive shaft. The sliding action is on the rear splines which is also goes thru temperature changes it is what need to be lubricated. When you pull the box the shaft will drop but it is easy to pick up in with the spline cup going back in with her. Installing the axle and spinning the nut down light ly before tightening the 4 bevel box mounting nuts insures alignment so you do not have to back track and scratch you head when thing are slightly off

Follow torque specifications and sequence and you will be fine. Good time to change the bevel box oil (but not required) I do it every oil change because it is not much and cheaper in the long run.

Thanks....I always change my bevel box oil at least once a year and have some BelRay Moly Assembly Lube that I have had for years. That should work well for the splines. I may pull the tire and bevel box when it gets nice this summer and inspect and lube the spline now that I have the ability to lift the bike.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

YES no moly grease and a lot of Rust get a new mechanic and use the correct lube