2006 rocket 3 roadster running or barely running

I had read here about 12 min tune , but the bike in current operating condition will not stay running long enough to bring in cooling fan without touching throttle. Although not very confident that the 12 minute time would do anything . Had it at a Jacksonville Triumph dealership prior to local wrench they told me I needed fuel tank , injectors, plugs, fuel pump , fuel filter , air filter in all $3640.00 I asked how the determined this and was told We have seen this before, This what needs to be done . I asked what scanner revealed , said didn't need to put scanner on have seen it before . Obviously I picked up bike .,
Wow I call BS on replacing all those parts. Check/replace fuel filter (inside to fuel tank) good opertunity to clean out the fuel and inspect the internals of the tank.
Also the older R3's had issues with the ignition switch - the white wire would burn out under the switch itself and through to the plug - worth a look under the tank while you have it off doing your filter.
Good luck
 
A general scanner is aright for genersl engine codes. But for performing maintenance and sensor settings they are as useful as a turd in a punch bowl. You need tuning software for the ecu to set things like the idle stepper motor and throttle position sensors in sync with the map in the ecu. Oh and a tps is basically a rheostat if it gets a worn area it will relay a false votage reading to the ecu. Then when the ecu uses the false data to calculate things like fueling, and timing things might not run right.
I see , thanks for that information. I did pull tank , and pump assembly , no visible scale , the pre screen and the sock are clean. Hoses are not hard or brittle , pulled out the fuel filter it is not plugged , also checked ohm on the coils all are around 1.8 to 1.9 . Looked at plugs , they are not wet , but do look a little ashy in color. At the fuel body can see butterfly is either almost completely closed , then pops wide open . Nothing in-between. Would tps cause also?? Should I have the TPS and stepper replaced together?
 
I see , thanks for that information. I did pull tank , and pump assembly , no visible scale , the pre screen and the sock are clean. Hoses are not hard or brittle , pulled out the fuel filter it is not plugged , also checked ohm on the coils all are around 1.8 to 1.9 . Looked at plugs , they are not wet , but do look a little ashy in color. At the fuel body can see butterfly is either almost completely closed , then pops wide open . Nothing in-between. Would tps cause also?? Should I have the TPS and stepper replaced together?
You might need a TPS which is about 150 or so. The key is you can do things like test the stepper motor fuel pump so it sounds like the stepper motor is trying to do its job but needs to first be set properly or verified it is set properly. along with the set and check of the primary TPS. once this is done we can evaluate whether you will need a new TPS. I bet the idles stepper motor is good. I have only heard of a couple stepper motors going bad since 2006. I suspect it has the old style TPS in which they had a problem with them say around late 07 to early 08.
 
Maybe a stupid question, but did you have the tank up for any reason right before you started having problems? There is a vaccuum connector mounted on the intake plumbing where three vaccuum lines from the throttle bodies come together and then one line departs the connector headed to a sensor. The only bike I've worked on with similar symptoms had one of those vac hoses pulled loose. It was a bugger to find because I couldn't keep the bike running long enough to properly diagnose the problem. I found it quite by accident really, but after it was re-connected the bike went immediately back to running flawlessly. Worth a check anyway
 
did u cut the fuel filter open and look inside?
i am like a few others fuel filter or fuel pump or cracked or lose hoses sucking air.
have u tried it with new filter?
 
Bad TPS would usually be indicated by random onset of elevated RPMs , usually sticking at 2,200-2500, that generally would reset only blipping the throttle hard or, preferably, by shutting down the engine and restarting.

The engine cutting out as you described sounds more like a bad fuel filter, clogged or crimped vacuum line or loose coil connectors, but I'm a relative simpleton with such matters.

Keep us in the loop and surely one of the resident gurus will help you to get to the bottom of it!
 
JM2C...I had the same problem one time coming home from Sturgis,i checked out most all the above and it ended up being bad gas. I was in Iowa when it happened, a guy in a high performance car told me beware of some of those gas stations that use high ethanol content. He told me about a BP station down the street and once i drained the tank and refilled it she ran fine.. I run about a third of a can of Seafoam through the gas tank every other fill up. Who knows how old that gas is sitting on the show room floor..?? Also there was an idle recall back then and Triumph covered it.
Idle Problems... Idle Adjustment.... - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

https://www.r3owners.net/threads/rocket-iii-production-dates-vs-idle-problems.543/page-2
 

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had i similar issue and it was fixed by replacing fuel filter and rubber fuel lines (filter should be changed every 20,000 mile and rubber lines build up scummy crap) also clean the metal fuels as best you can with long bottle brush type cleaner and cleaning the injectors, find a shop that does Ultra Sonic Injector cleaning, the fuel filters only keep the bigger crap out, also it is worth getting the Lontech cable and TuneECU software and periodically running the "adjust ISCV" on the tests page as this syncs the stepper motor and TPS, if when doing this you find the TPS voltage becomes erratic change your TPS I am on my third in 70,000+ KMs
 
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