2005 Triumph Rocket 3 Mechanic Needed In C.T.

Mike, I'm also in CT, but it sounds like you are a better mechanic than myself, so I am not of much help in that dept. I have similar issues with my 09 Rocket. If you resolved your issues, please let me know how you finally straightened it out. Thanks
 
Sorry for the late reply, After a bunch of kicks to the nut$ and time spent. I have been really enjoying the rocket 3.. will try to help you anyway i can.. my ride is officially sorted out.
 
Mike, I am glad for you that you are now enjoying your Rocket, how did you solve your issues. I am trying to balance my throttle bodies, they are way off. I also have the CA emissions bike with vacuum hoses everywhere. I am thinking that the TPS might be the issues, reading alot of posts with that issue. Been riding my Harley, never any issues with it.
Thanks,
Frank
 
Frank, Does the bike run?, do you have Tune Ecu (a free downloadable software) that requires a data cable ($30) often found on ebay/amazon. There is only one brand that is trusted for the data cable to be used with the tune ecu software. Can't recall the name now..but can take a look in my garage.

Tune ecu will allow you in real time to view and partial troubleshoot the motorcycle from a diagnostic table. The software is very easy to use and will provide data to back up suspect issues/concerns.

I would not touch the throttlebodies until i had access to the software.

Where in CT are you?
 
Frank, Does the bike run?, do you have Tune Ecu (a free downloadable software) that requires a data cable ($30) often found on ebay/amazon. There is only one brand that is trusted for the data cable to be used with the tune ecu software. Can't recall the name now..but can take a look in my garage.

Tune ecu will allow you in real time to view and partial troubleshoot the motorcycle from a diagnostic table. The software is very easy to use and will provide data to back up suspect issues/concerns.

I would not touch the throttlebodies until i had access to the software.

Where in CT are you?
Mike, thanks for getting back to me. Yes I did use TuneECU(it works great)and that's how I am balancing the throttle bodies. I also recrimped the coil leads, cleaned the crank sensor, etc. IThe bike runs but misses and back fires and after running awhile the idle stays up. I am in Georgetown, CT. How did you get your bike in good running order.
 
I had some vacumn leaks at the throttle bodies and at the base gaskets where the throttle bodies connect to the motor.. pulled throttle bodies off and replaced base gaskets.. cleaned injectors while the throttle bodies where off and found alot of sediment.. put everything back together.. bike fired right up and maintained idle.. dropped the tank and went for a ride.. bike lost idle and died.

When i first picked the bike up i drained the fuel, shined a flashlight in and saw what looked to be a relatively clean tank..

I pulled the bike back into the garage and shined my light into the tank.. and saw some little black flakes.. borrowed a snake style camera scope from a buddy of mine and found a rocks glass worth of gunk and rot at the flat portion of the tank almost where you sit on the bike.. when the tank went up and down it was freeing up this spot and mixing in with the fuel and finding its way into the fuel line/injector. Purchased new tank and filter. Ran like a champ

I replaced my primary and secondary tps, stepper motor, gaskets, vac lines, and spent hours trying to sync my throttle bodies and adjust tps/stepper, loading maps etc..

In the end it was primarily a fuel and vacuum problem... The tank is still in my garage and you could only see the rot of the tank from the inside with a scope or if you pull the fuel sender assembly from the bottom...
 
BTW,
lose the factory airbox under the claw and get the ramair setup for $130 or the triple k&n set up.. it makes working under the tank 100 times easier
 
I've been told there is a tendency for R3 tanks to rust out on the left hand rear where water and debris gather. From just humidity in some climates, and bad fuel from contaminated bowser tanks etc.

I swapped out my 2010 R3R tank with 72,000 Km for a brand new striped one and it was not corroded at all, just had some dirt from crappy fuel bowsers swilling around loose at the bottom.

Some recommend sealing the inside of the tank with one of the supertough resin liners before or after the problem appears. My mate did that to the '78 BMW I now own in the early 90's after the tank was pinholed in a few places and it has never leaked since.
 
Mike, thanks for the info. I did put the triple K&Ns on for working on the bike. I was going to put the airbox back on when done, but maybe not necessary. What I gather from your issues, it all looks like the sediment or rust in the tank was the main issue. I never looked in the tank, the outside looks good but who knows how condensation works on the inside of a tank. Doesn't sound like the brits seal the inside of the tank at the factory. It looks like I have a bit more work to do, like check injectors for crud and check for air leaks. I should see if I have the TPS with blue internals. With 10k on the odometer you wouldn't think a tank could rust out, where did you find a new tank?
 
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