200 HP Chase Begins .... Now Completed 14 Months In. WooHoo !!

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll get those pictures this week for your help.

Planning to rob the injectors out of my 2005 basket case Rocket and try those. Thinking the shop that cleaned mine may have damaged them. The engine acts like all the fuel is dumping into cyl 1 and not enough is getting to 2 and 3. Cyl 1 spark plugs are black and 2 and 3 look almost like they did when I installed them new for this start up.

Idaho Red Rocket 3 said:

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll get those pictures this week for your help.

Planning to rob the injectors out of my 2005 basket case Rocket and try those. Thinking the shop that cleaned mine may have damaged them. The engine acts like all the fuel is dumping into cyl 1 and not enough is getting to 2 and 3. Cyl 1 spark plugs are black and 2 and 3 look almost like they did when I installed them new for this start up.

Click to expand...

You have good fuel pressure but do they give a volume spec? I am just curious because while you can make the right pressure you might not have the volume. Easy to make pressure with low volume when you are dead heading against a pressure gauge. I know you changed the fuel filter and if something is wrong with the new filter, there could be a restriction in the fuel supply. I would check that and then try different injectors.

You have more than enough cylinder pressure to run, if you were off maybe it wouldn't make peak horsepower but at idle it shouldn't be a problem. It also wouldn't cause 1 cylinder to run perfect, the second to run so so and the last to run terrible. That is also why I don't think it is ignition, it seems like you have a drop off down the fuel rail. Ignition I would expect to drop or have issues with one cylinder or two and either not work at all or run terrible between the 2nd and 3rd cylinder, not a gradual drop off as you go away from the front of the bike. I think the key is how the quality of the cylinders drops as it goes from the front of the bike to the rear. That doesn't seem anything to me but fuel, maybe vacuum, least likely ignition.

Any progress ???? I know how frustrating problems like this can be.......

Suspect damaged injectors from cleaning. Not sure yet.

Ok got the injectors out of both throttle body sets. Going to send them to Cali for a good inspection/cleaning/repair.

Also got the throttle bodies off my Red Rocket for pictures of the vacuum lines for @R-III-R Turbo R. I decided to re-rout the vacuum lines for a straighter run. Could not find any leaking or bad hoses or connectors. Put pressure and vacuum on each hose and connector and found no leaks in either direction.
Cleaned the TBs again with some B-12 on a rag.

Also pulled out the Crank Position Sensor. Found it with metal shavings well not really shavings or slivers but more like metal particle ice sickle on the top and side. They kind of fell apart when I wiped them off like they were made from many small particles. What kind of sensor error could these cause ??

Pictures below.

I'd try to get the 3 lines going to the map sensor, the same length. Theory is so that the sensor gets the same inpulse from each throttle body. I know it sounds silly, but we are grabbing at straws. That piece of metal scarf on the crank sensor, "might" have caused a problem. I wouldn't worry about that little bit of metal though. Keep us posted. Hang in there, you'll geter goin.

Vac hoses are the OEM which might look like different lengths due to their shaping but they are actually all the same length. Looks pretty good to me, only thing I could point out is that the vac tubes need to be seated fully home, even a small gap can cause an issue ime.
Low probability that this was your issue but a probability nonetheless.






Also, just out of interest, is this an extension for the intake temp sensor?

I really wish vehicle manufacturers would clean up the wiring, termination points and hose routing in their vehicles. The 'Rat's Nest' that's often created leads to problems when it comes to troubleshooting. In the mining industry, since the loaders, trucks and drills were often hand made, we issued a specification for how the wiring and hydraulic hoses were to be routed, finalized and made. No hoses or wires were to cross open compartments but run around perimeters, clamped every foot or so. Electrical wires and hydraulic hoses weren't allowed in the same bundles or together in dash compartments to prevent chaffing/fires. Wires from the main dash terminal strip ran in multi conductor, fireproof cables (not individual wires) to terminal boxes at the ends of the machine to numbered terminal strips in sealed boxes. From here they fed the proper component through waterproof strain reliefs. Very easy to trace/troubleshoot. No need to punch holes in wires. All wires had circular numbered collars which were held in place with clear heat shrink for identification (we didn't rely on colour). We were willing to pay a premium for this specialized work. Hydraulic and electrical prints were done in ladder logic to make tracing circuits easier compared to the wiring prints we typically see (like Triumph's).

And then I look at the compartment above the engine on our Rockets and other vehicles and I cringe. How many fellows have been fooled because they inadvertently plugged something incorrectly due to this organized confusion???? Sorry for the rant but this has been a pet peeve of mine for years.

Gregger said:

And then I look at the compartment above the engine on our Rockets and other vehicles and I cringe. How many fellows have been fooled because they inadvertently plugged something incorrectly due to this organized confusion???? Sorry for the rant but this has been a pet peeve of mine for years.

Click to expand...

Yeah there are similar plugs near each other that shouldn't be, e.g. the MAP and heated grips plugs are the same fit, and located right beside each other, for one thing.
It happened a guy on here before - mixed them up and bike ran like sh1t.

But the one in the pic "looks" ok - hard to see wiring colours though, MAP wires has a pink and a pink black, the heated grips has a purple.

Thanks @R-III-R Turbo. The extension wire you ask about is for the air flow sensor that goes in the RamAir filter.

Do you have any thoughts on the metal "ice sickles" on the crank position sensor ?