2.5L Rocket Stroker Engine Kit with 6 Speed Transmission (R&D)

Steel, Arto mentioned M/second. this is the speed that the piston travels up and down the bore.
The higher the RPM, the higher the M/second.
I've forgotten the numbers now, but this why Forged pistons were used in place of stock cast pistons (in older Engines)
The Forged pistons would survive a higher M/Second rate, where the cast ones would just plain wear out.

So max RPM is dictated by A) The length of the stroke (which gives M/Second or minute), and B) the type of piston used.

Wiseco Dives Into Piston Speed | RacePages Digital
 
Would be interested in an indicative kit cost, or any ride in service in Ireland or on UK mainland. I just want that torque, not really bothered about HP
I like the fact that it is undetectable from stock
 
Steel said:
Before I die from curiosity, please tell us how much the kit will be.
Click to expand...

chrisw said:
Would be interested in an indicative kit cost, or any ride in service in Ireland or on UK mainland. I just want that torque, not really bothered about HP
I like the fact that it is undetectable from stock
Click to expand...

Ask and you shall receive

For Sale - 2.5L Rocket III Stroker Kits




If you're using a 9000rpm engine, the way I figure it, you already have forged pistons, and as long as you're not living at 9000rpm, only an occasional jaunt up there when embarrassing big sport bikes, then it's not a problem. Your engine is still living it's life mostly at moderate speeds.
 
I try to shift at 8000, but it gets there so fast that it might hit 8500 before I get to. Most bikes that try me don't make me go past 7000.
 
Steel said:
I try to shift at 8000, but it gets there so fast that it might hit 8500 before I get to. Most bikes that try me don't make me go past 7000.
Click to expand...

I know what you mean dude, I only hit 9000 myself when up against a hayabusa. 99% of the others don't need much more than 5 or 6k like you say

Hard to shift just right when the tach needle stops at 8000.
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
I know what you mean dude, I only hit 9000 myself when up against a hayabusa. 99% of the others don't need much more than 5 or 6k like you say

Hard to shift just right when the tach needle stops at 8000.
Click to expand...
That's why I try to shift at 8000, but it gets there so fast in 1st & 2nd I probably hit 8500, then both tach and speedo run out before the end of 3rd.
 
R3r-T:

This whole thread has been such a wild ride to read. It's amazing to see the final product come to light after such a long time (even though I only started following this thread a few weeks ago)

A few notes:

#1: Holy F@#king $*!+ this is cool
#2: See #1.
#3: From my days of wrenching on LS1s in high school, standard bolt ons? Head, Cam, Exhaust. What are you thoughts on this? Carpenter does all 3, but if you want to go boost, I wouldn't think you want the compression to the level of their full kits.
#4: I saw that you want to put on the TTS from another build, have you worked with a Variable Geometry Turbo like aerocharger, your thoughts?
#5: Again.... See #1
#6: I'm trying to convince my wife that this is a necessity. Help me!
 
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